Doing duraspark, need help...

[The_Dealer]

Hey guys, well this weekend im going to attempt to do the duraspark mod(85 B2,A4ld 4wd), but i have a few questions first. i got a 2150 for a 79 pinto 2.8, will i have to do any tuning on the carb when i put it on? i got it as a rebuilt motorcraft unit from advance.

also im looking at options for the a4ld to shift right. and i was looking at the vacuum switch method. how exactly do u install it? looking at the tech article, it says thake the ground wire from the TCC solenoid and run it to a brake switch, then that ground wire runs into the vacuum switch, and from the vacuum switch to a ground. so where does the other wire from the brake switch and the other wire from the vacuum switch go? im confused. does anyone have any details on doing it? also with all the EEC crap gone, where do i run the vacuum line to from the tranny? also where is the vacuum line from the gm vacuum line switch go to?

thanks guys, i hope to get this done this weekend

 

[martin]

Manifold vacuum.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

First you will need a carb spacer felpro # 60529 to plug the vacuum leak on the base of the carb about $18. The transmission I believe has the modulator that gets hooked to manifold vac as it already is and hook the advance for the distributor to manifold also everything else gets plugged except the PCV,brake booster and the vapor cannister. I just wired the two solenoids for the float bowl and the carbon cannister to key on from the power that was used for the computer.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html Most of the information is in this link you will use the second color schematic for wiring the ignition and just use the stock coil as it uses battery voltage and stock plugs work great. Do all the research first to make the assault on the wiring and vacuum lines. I just started at the computer and pulled the plate the harness thru the firewall and separated the plate from the harness and put it back in and siliconed the hole. Take everything loose except the alternator wires , water temp and oil pressure then from the 8 wire connector strip the plastic and tape back to the alternator to expos the wires and just cut what is not being used. There were only a couple wires I cut from the 8 wire connector for computer power and one is for your OD lockout but leave a pig tail on the ones you cut for future use everything else goes away including the vacuum lines and solenoids and dont forget to unplug the knock sensor on the block by the starter. The duraspark wiring is real simple 6 wires total but with a 85 the ignition can be tricky if you not good a wiring just take your time and have the battery disconnected until you get it all the way the schematic shows. Stupid questions are alot easier to fix than stupid mistakes. Oh yea if the carb has the choke preheater tube fitting use a A/C cap to cap it off it is a vacuum leak also it is the fitting on the choke that is at a 45 degree angle toward the back of the engine. You have several options for the OD lockout so read up on which way you prefer the dash switch seems the easyest.

 

[The_Dealer]

the wiring the duraspark i understood that, the vapor canister thing kinda confuses me, i thought that was supposed to come out with the rest of the smog crap, as a matter of fact mine didnt even have a vapor canister. im missing half the vacuum lines and i think the knock sensor is hanging off of my wiring harness lol, whoever messed around with this thing before was a complete idiot. i guess im just gonna do the od lockout switch on the dash

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I just hooked mine up with a restrictor so it pull the fuel vapors thru the manifold I hate the smell of fuel when I walk up to my truck but it is not necessary all you really need is the advance for the dizzy. I tried mine for a while with ported vacuum from the carb but manifold vacuum works better for the idle I also have the timing at 12 dbtdc with no vacuum to the dizzy I am gonna try and take it back to 10 degrees and see if it makes a difference maybe this weekend. It still is 200% better than it was starts right up and idles at a light with no hesitation on the skinny pedal. I also did the valve guide seals no more puffing smoke when I start it. I am also running #46 jets and plan on putting the #50s back in and see if it get a little more go. I am getting about 16 1/2 mpg combination city/hwy.

 

[The_Dealer]

will the duraspark fix my rough/jumpy idle? i hate when i put it in park and the thing revs to about 2500 for like 10 sec's before it drops back right...so embarassing

right now im getting about 14mpg's mixed driving with 31's

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It will fix alot of issues just getting rid of the emission crap. You will need to put a block off plate on the egr also they are easy enough to make just use a good high tem gasket preferably a stock one and plug those holes. I would get the wiring and ignition done first then you can tackle the carb but it will run with the stock carb if you need to run for parts but it will run richjust use the idle screw that holds the throttle open and pull the idle motor off of there.