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Did Duraspark, keep burning up modules. Help!!


Do you know if the Aerostar headers have enough flow improvement over the stock manifolds to make it worth all of the trouble? Other than being tubular shaped like headers, they don't look like they would offer much improvement, and if they do, I'd bet it's all in the top end.
 
Is there any indicator on the cam shaft pulley that points to when you are at TDC?
 
If you are talking crankshaft damper pully yes TC is tdc it is the wide groove on the pully with the letters TC just above it you need to make sure it is on the compression stroke line the groove up to the pionter and your rotor on the dizzy should be around 11 oclock.
 
How can i tell if it is on the compression stroke?
 
Pull the plug on #1 and put your finger over the hole it was in. Turn the engine over. You will feel the compression push your finger away on compression.
 
dont know if i posted up, but i had previously set my timing by ear. well thurs i finally got ahold of a timing light and i checked it, was at about 50*, so i set it to 12*...omg its like a different motor, thing is way better then before. thanks guys for all the help
 
Yea only if you get real lucky can you get the timing right V-8s are kinna easy but you need to adjust the timing according to the ping at higher rpm`s under a load with WOT.
 
OK how do i get the dizzy out? i got it to TDC and took the 13mm bolt out but it seems to be in there or is stuck? Any suggestions?
 
i had to wiggle mine and pull up and turn it counter clockwise at the same time. install was reverse, had to pushe turn and wiggle around with a buddy turning the crank slightly to get the oil pump engaged. if u dont get it right the first time u can put the cap adapter on and get the rotor pointing to the #1 wire on the cap. if u are off and u still have room to adjust the timing u can advance or retard by moving the plug wires

in a nutshell, when u get it in and get the cap about to go on, see wat plug nipple its close to and make that your #1 plug location and install the other plug wires from there, u might have to swap some of the wires around to get the right length. then u can do your final timing. its alot easier then to keep pulling out the disty and putting it back in. mine still had enough movement to advance about 60* before it hit the valve cover

hope this helps

o yea, when u put the disty back in, put an ass load of oil(i used 2 cycle oil) on the o ring and the gears and where the shaft seats in the block, makes it alot easier to get in. also the hold down bolt is a pita to get back in
 
Can i just use grease or do u suggest oil?
 
Will the little bulge on the new dizzy sit flush with the hole for the dizzy. I think i got it in all the way but the little bulge is about half an inch from the hole.
 
I`m not sure what you mean bulge but with a new o-ring it took some force for me to get it started then I took a screwdriver and clicked the starter to turn the dizzy until it would mesh with the oil pump and push the rest of the way down just dont have the rotor in it can rip your hand apart if it gets caught. Shorting the battery side of the starter solenoid to the small terminal with a srewdriver is the poor mans isolation switch.
 
THe bulge i am talking about is right above the o ring. i cant get it to go down any further
 
it should be fully seated at the bottom of the lip that rests on the block

also if u can turn the rotor and it doesnt move then its seated
 
dont try and force it The rotor turns counter clockwise as your pushing it down so lift it a little click the starter lightly and then push down do that until it goes all the way down. If you try and force it you can damage the oil pump or dizzy. If you still have the old dizzy measure it side by side and see if they are the same and the oil pump drive is the same on the bottom of the dizzy shaft.
 

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