Danan 35 axle seals...where are they & how to replace?

[gijon]

I have a Danan 35 and broke the axle at the u-joint trying to get out of a ditch last winter....

So after no luck finding axle shafts at any part stroe or online i pulled one out of a junkyard truck.

I went to autozone to get all the appropriate seals and they sell me one of these for each side:

I hope that link works, if not it is supposedly the "axle shaft seal", and each side is different.

I have no idea where these seals are located. I have seen the exploded views of the front axle, and read through removal and installation of the shafts more times than I care to admit, and I am still stumped. any help on where these are located and how to replace them would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Ranger44]

The seal pictured goes on the driver's side. They are actually on the differential. Where the shafts go in.

 

[gijon]

Thanks. So, to replace the passenger side I am going to have to take the pig apart?

 

[metalmacguyver]

Not apart but it will need to be unbolted from the beam.

 

[gijon]

Ok. Thanks to you both. Why is it that these seals are not mentioned in the step by step for removing and installing the axles? Or am I simply overlooking this step?

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana28Rebuild.html

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Because you do not HAVE to replace the seals when the shafts are replaced.

However it is good practice to as you are already in there. It would be a PITA to have to pull it all back apart afterward if you found the seal had started to leak.

 

[bhawk]

I just removed the pig from our 94 Ranger 4x4 this weekend to replace U joints on the passenger side (RH) axle. You cannot replace the center U joint nearest the diff without removing the pig because the RH axle stub shaft is held into the pig with a C clip. However, the driver side axle (LH) just pulls out of the pig, no C clip holding it in. So, if you broke the LH axle, it will be much easier to replace than the RH axle. However, note that the RH axle comes in 2 pieces with a slip joint spline setup near the middle. Again, if you broke the outer RH axle, no problem, it pulls out of the spline once you remove the clamps on the rubber slip joint boot.
I changed that axle seal you pictured. It is drivers side. Passenger side is different. You can see the passenger side seal easily from under the truck. It is hard to see the LH seal until you remove the rotor, spindle hub and axle and look down the axel tube.
What axle broke and where?

 

[gijon]

I broke the driver's side axle shaft. I have already removed the old shaft on that side, but I did not notice this seal, that was what originally confused me. Are these seals simply slipped over the axle shafts before inserting them into the pig?

While I was under the truck I noticed that there is a leak coming from where the passenger side axle goes into the pig. So, I will be taking both sides apart and taking the pig off. I think I will also replace the pinion seal while I am at it. Any suggestions on other things to take care of when it is all apart?

Thanks for all the help and good info guys!

 

[4x4junkie]

The axle seals are pressed into the sides of the differential housing.

I wouldn't mess with the pinion seal unless it's actually leaking (removing the pinion nut will disturb the pinion bearing preload. If it's not reestablished correctly, the pinion bearings could burn up).

 

[gijon]

The axle seals are pressed into the sides of the differential housing.

I wouldn't mess with the pinion seal unless it's actually leaking (removing the pinion nut will disturb the pinion bearing preload. If it's not reestablished correctly, the pinion bearings could burn up).

Roger That. If it's not broke, don't fix it. Mine is not, so I won't.
Thanks again!

 

[bhawk]

the most difficult part about removing the pig is the vertical pinch bolt that squeezes together the axle housing to the pig on the drivers side. You can remove the nut at the bottom, but you cannot push the bolt upwards and out because it hits the radius arm. Service manual tells you to unbolt the radius arm and move it, about an inch to allow the bolt to be removed. I did that, but wow, the bolt and stud holding the radius arm were tight. Needed big heat and a huge 1 and1\8 inch wrench and socket. Some poster on this site have notched the radius arm to allow the bolt to pass. Not an easy task unless you have a cutting torch it seems to me. Another said he ground the head of the bolt into a D shape to get it by. You have choices, but get a good long 1 and 1\8 box end wrench if you intend to move that radius arm. It requires that you remove the LH spring and shock of course. Good luck.