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D44 TTB swap question???


atomicjoe23

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
122
Vehicle Year
1979
Transmission
Automatic
Will D44 TTB arms work with D35 TTB crossmember? or do you need the D44 TTB crossmember?

Thanks!
 
One way or the other it'll require modifying one part or another no bolt on install there... Not sure which way would be easier. I'd check the width of d44 cross member and see if it interstates with anything besides suspension...
 
Any reason I couldn't just make my own hangers???

I'm installing a TTB under a '94 Jeep YJ Wrangler.
 
I would assume the D44 crossmember is wider than the D35 crossmember, due to it being off a fullsize pickup.....

D44 TTB arms have been used in RBV originally equipped with D35 TTB.

See here for some ideas:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44TTBconversion.htm

There isn't any real strength gains from doing so though...
 
Probably wants the width of the D44.

The D44 actually has narrower (closer together) mounting points than the D35, however a D44's pivots can be bolted directly into the space where a D35 was. You will have to shorten the passengerside axle shaft(s) a total of 1.5-2" to account for that difference in pivot spacing (or better, you could instead lengthen each beam 1", which would preserve the axle's entire original width).

If you're putting a TTB where one did not exist before though (Jeep, etc.), then yes your brackets will be pretty much entirely custom. If you don't have any references to measure from, I would set the spacing of both sides so that the center axle slip-shaft is about 1.5 - 2" from bottomed out with the suspension positioned at normal static ride height.
 
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Probably wants the width of the D44.

Yep. . .I'm also in the middle of reading a thread of someone who has already done something similar to what I want to do but he is using D50 TTB arms with D60 spindles and stub shafts (I think that's right anyway). . .the cool thing about that is the WMS-to-WMS is identical to the F-150 rear 8.8 axle that I'm getting. . .69"

The D44 actually has narrower (closer together) mounting points than the D35, however a D44's pivots can be bolted directly into the space where a D35 was. You will have to shorten the passengerside axle shaft(s) a total of 1.5-2" to account for that difference in pivot spacing (or better, you could instead lengthen each beam 1", which would preserve the axle's entire original width).

I would definitely widen the beams vs. shorten the axles. . .

If you're putting a TTB where one did not exist before though (Jeep, etc.), then yes your brackets will be pretty much entirely custom. If you don't have any references to measure from, I would set the spacing of both sides so that the center axle slip-shaft is about 1.5 - 2" from bottomed out with the suspension positioned at normal static ride height.

I have a stock D35 crossmember right now. . .I got the entire front suspension from a D35 Ranger that a guy had done a SAS on and he was wanting to get rid of the TTB stuff and couldn't sell it so I got it for free.

Thanks for the help so far!!!
 
i added 1 and a half inches to each beam. it bolted up fine. you will have to move you coil mounts in on the beam. i used some channel with a bolt welded into it.
downsized_0330111742.jpg
 
With that much work, I would just go with a D44 SAS.....
 
What exactly is "that much work"?

A D44 SA isn't really that much different as far as amount of work involved (at least as long as it's going under a RBV)... :dunno: Still gotta space out the coil buckets, then fab up a trackbar mount, etc.


gfbgreaser, you need to bring that steering linkage down a good 3-4" it looks like.
 
i changed front coil springs and it brought the steering a bit more level, plus i am using stock unmodded bronco steering. ive have been racing this truck on the weekends as a tough truck and driving it to work everyday. its getting a solid axle put in it this weekend. im tired of bending drivers side ttb brackets. it wasn't that hard of a swap and it can be done in a couple of hrs if you have the right tools.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULNjxV0KWlU&feature=related tennis balls are a must if your going to be jumping a coil sprung truck
 
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I will say that it would be a good setup for dessert and jumping applications though....

Got pictures of the bent up TTB bracket?
 
downsized_0617111809.jpg
downsized_0617111809a.jpg

the first time the bracket broke where the tabs where bent to mount to the frame. i welded them back together and this is what happened at my last race.
 
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downsized_0617111809.jpg
downsized_0617111809a.jpg

the first time the bracket broke where the tabs where bent to mount to the frame. i welded them back together and this is what happened at my last race.

What brand bracket is that?

A Duff or SJ bracket would be alot stronger...
 
i had a pair of sj's brackets on it first. matter of fact the passenger beam was still using the sj bracket still. im doing an sas this weekend. i have a race coming up in turlock soon so im preparing for that right now.
 
What kind of racing do you do with your truck...mud dragging? If so then a soild axle would be better, the TTB would be like a plow and push the mud.

As for the bracket, welding ribs to it may have prevented it from doing that.
 

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