D44 Knuckle Swap w/ Y steering

[keithisg]

Ive pretty much convinced myself that a SAS is out of budget and not really necessary for me. I figure a D44 knuckles swap, c clip eliminator, u joint upgrade, and bigger shafts are enough for me.

Although I was wondering about steering I know in the tech library it says taper the knuckle to fit d35 stock steering but what if I just got a Y steering kit from Ruff Stuff with the GM 1 ton tres? Would it just fit straight in that knuckle? What about the pitman arm? I figure 235 isn't bad for a bulletproof setup.

Another thing I can think of is the steering would bind when the suspension cycles due to it being an IFS system correct?

 

[4x4junkie]

The D44 TTB knuckles have the same TRE taper as the D35, just inverted (mounts the TRE below). I'd redrill them to mount the TRE above (you'll need a reamer for the 1-ton ends if that's what you're using).

Nothing should bind as long as your angles are all correct, and the linkage is built so that the driverside tierod clears the pitman arm TRE.

 

[dangerranger83]

TTB fronts run the inverted Y setup. In 98 they went to IFS in rangers and run rack and pinion steering.

Now if you want bullet proof steering with all of this, go with stone crusher or another aftermarket setup.

EDIT: He beat me to it but suspected that he would be here soon.....

 

[legoms013]

The RBV y-steering is different from the typical, industry term of y-link steering which is what Ruff Stuff is referring to.

If you want to run a y-link 1-ton version (that mimics the stock setup) you can make something like this, or other people have used early bronco modified linkages so that you don't have to weld a block on like I did (and I recommend that method over my own):

Ruffstuff's y-link is actually referring to the a t-link setup (thats the more common term used) and this is what Jeeps and many SAS's vehicles use.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

The terms are interchanged but the mean different things.

"Another thing I can think of is the steering would bind when the suspension cycles due to it being an IFS system correct?"

A solid axle steering setup won't work on the TTB ^

 

[keithisg]

Im a bit confused by the responses but a traditional "crossover" "y link" "t link" setup wont work because of the binding that would occur from each wheel moving independently?

@dangerranger93 I know that they went to IFS that year but I reffered to the TTB as a IFS setup because it pretty much is in a non traditional way.

 

[legoms013]

Im a bit confused by the responses but a traditional "crossover" "y link" "t link" setup wont work because of the binding that would occur from each wheel moving independently

Correct, since the pivot points are in different places.

But if you have fab skillz you can make anything work.

If I were you I just get the appropriate reamer and re-ream so you could re-use the D35 steering linkages.

 

[keithisg]

I got a little bit of fab skills, but I just am not a big fan of the stock TREs looks like rebar steering haha.

I like your setup a lot I definitely haven't seen that before. I feel like once I'm running 35s, winch bumper and other added weight the steering might fatigue.

What angle are you supposed to set the drag link up on your setup? Could I run the drag link to the passenger side in a mock up then weld up a tab and line up the driver side link?

 

[legoms013]

Keep in mind I switched to the following setup b/c the previous style didn't work well with the amount of lift I have (6.5"). This is what works best IMHO for alot cheaper than the absolute BEST which is a dual swing arm setup:

Not sure if I understand what you are asking, but the tie-rods need to be flat regardless. If there is any angle on them, you need to get a bigger drop pitman arm, lower your lift height, or modify a Superlift SuperRunner kit.

The drivers side tab I just welded on so that it was pointed vertically down with no angle, at the same location laterally that the stock linkage had it's pivot point. Obviously you can put it in the exact same place so it ends up a little lower than it should be. This is referring to my first picture.

Again, I do not suggest building a setup like the first picture I posted. With that setup, you will get *tie-rod rolling* which is when the tie-rod rolls one direction or another when you steer either left or right. This makes the steering feel like it has a *dead* spot. This puts tremendous strain on the TREs also, as they are maxed out constantly.

I much more advocate one of the following (all depending on the amount of lift you have):

Regular drop arm FA400 or similar for 1-3" of lift
Extreme drop arm FA600 for 3-4" of lift
Modified Superlift SuperRunner kit for 3-6"
"Stonecrusher" setup for 2-4" and for mostly a offroad truck
Or double swing arm setup if the sky is the limit, fabbed by a offroad shop

 

[keithisg]

Ive got to say that double swing arm setup is straight amazing but definitely out of my needs and price range. Im thinking stone crusher because I dont really see myself doing more than 4" suspension and 3" body to clear some 35's.

Thanks for the responses though, im still amazed by that double swing steering :O

 

[legoms013]

With a 4" lift, an Skyjacker FA600 Extreme drop pitman arm on stock linkage, or StoneCrusher setup with Heims will work perfectly

If you go with the StoneCrusher setup, most likely you will need only a standard drop pitman arm to go with it.