d44 knuckle swap + 2.5" wheel backspacing?

[jour]

I've got all the parts for a d44 knuckle conversion. Still debating whether or not I want to do it. It basically comes down to tires and wheel selection....

Could I run 2.5" backspacing wheels? I want to get the tires further from the radius arms on my current d35 with 3.75" BS. So I'm thinking the d44 knuckle's better bearing spacing might allow this?

And how about 37" tires? Does the d44 knuckle swap increase the max tire size (with full circle clips and clearanced shafts of course)? I have 35s now. But if I'm buying all new wheels, I could easily talk myself into all new tires too. I don't wheel hardcore. Snow, fire roads, forest roads, nothing serious. Though I do lock the front sometimes.

Thanks.

 

[Snoranger]

So you want to swap in the D44 knuckles so you can push the tires out more without eating up D35 bearings every week... Then you want to go to a bigger tire and put more stress on the bearings?

I'd pick one or the other, not both.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I am NOT an expert. This is stuff I've been researching because I want to widen the track of my ttb front without extending the beams and axles and have contemplated both options you're thinking of. I may still do both, I don't know enough to make a decision yet.

How much farther out will the tire sit with the new knuckles? This is a question I haven't found an answer to yet with the search button.
Perhaps you could do the measuring while the parts are loose and post them up?

As far as backspace, this leads to changing the steering geometry. From what I've read so far, you will have a lot more steering feel. Which may not be good if you hit a big hole or rock and the steering wheel gets ripped out of your hands , or more likely something bends or breaks from the extra forces being fed back into the steering. It also changes the scrub radius. Imagine that the wheel pivots on a central point, then move the tire out an 1 1/2". You will see that there is more tire on one side of the pivot, which scrubs when turning. This will affect tire wear and gas mileage and may also have input into steering.
Bearings will have more force on them, so will wear quicker. It all depends on how much effort you're willing to make on maintenance and replacement when worn.

With 37", you may have to move the axles forward for clearance? Or cut into the firewall?

Perhaps the easiest is keeping the 35", and making new radius arms with the clearance you need designed into them.

I know I didn't answer the questions, just gave you more to think about.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[jour]

snoranger, I don't see why both is unreasonable, but its why I asked the question.

I don't have any bearings troubles to begin with. Its been said many times here that putting 225+ ft-lbs of torque on the outer nut is whats required to keep them tight and it has worked very well for me. So I need there to be some additional benefit to running better bearing spacing....

I'd choose 17" wheels next time around so that would be some reduction in bearing stress too (stiffer sidewalls).

alwaysfloored, I've read numerous times that the axle gets 3/4" wider on each side. And with 1.5" lug adapters on the rear they line up flush better than the regular d35/8.8 do.

I see a lot of threads with people who say they've done the mod.... very few threads with people's impressions of it or further insight. Anyone done it and tried new wheels/tires?