D35 TTB Ball Joint Changeover?

[HsOffRoad]

Does anyone know why Moog Lists two separate part numbers for their D35 TTB ball joints, depending on the build date of the vehicle?

Moog D35 TTB Ball Joint P/Ns:

Build Date Prior to 1/11/1993 - Upper – K8546
Build Date Prior to 1/11/1993 - Lower – K8563
Build Date 1/11/1993 & Later - Upper - K8676
Build Date 1/11/1993 & Later - Lower – K8673

Moog even has a TSB type of form about this (form DYK10-102) where they break all of this down for you.

Link to PDF of Moog form:

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf/_did_you_knows/DYK10-102E.pdf


This doesn't make sense to me, because the Dana/Spicer build sheet (along with other manufacturers like Raybestos, etc.), list the ball joints as being identical - and offer only one P/N for all TTB D35s, from 1990-1997.

The Moog website doesn't list dimensions for their products, and from the pictures that they display for the two P/Ns, they appear identical.

If anyone can shed some light on what is going on here, and what (if anything) changed in the D35 TTB knuckles/beams on 1/11/1993, I would certainly appreciate it.


Thanks,


-Hans

 

[4x4junkie]

I have no clue at all. I've never come across or been made aware of any differences myself and I've been around these axles a lot.

I would forget about Moog anyway, their joints are overhyped junk (I think I got around 5000 miles or so out of them before the lowers became loose).

Go with the Raybestos "Professional Grade" joints. These are actual Dana Spicer joints and seem to be made to a far higher quality standard (I've had these (Spicer) on my Ranger for almost 9 years & 50,000 miles now with the same use patterns as I put my Moog ones through, yet they're still tight as brand new).


Welcome to TRS, BTW.

 

[trail B2]

I just put a pair of these on this morning.I noticed the upper came with a snap ring that won't fit on my spindle.The old one didn't have one and the spindle isn't machined to accept it.I also noticed that different years have different pinch bolts.My Raybestos joint came with two different bolts and neither was the one in my car.These might be your differences.

 

[4x4junkie]

I just put a pair of these on this morning.I noticed the upper came with a snap ring that won't fit on my spindle.The old one didn't have one and the spindle isn't machined to accept it.I also noticed that different years have different pinch bolts.My Raybestos joint came with two different bolts and neither was the one in my car.These might be your differences.

What year is your D35 axle from?

 

[trail B2]

If your talking to me I had a 90 and 93 Ranger plus a 92 explorer in a pile so I could be wrong but I was thinking a 90 Ranger.

 

[HsOffRoad]

Thanks for the input guys.

The reason I ask is because the the truck I pulled the TTB setup out of at the yard was a 92 Explorer, and while the driver's side beam looked to be original, the passenger side beam/radius arm had paint pen writing on it and were obviously from a different vehicle (the passenger side rotor had an ABS ring on it as well, but the knuckles/spindles are both the older, Non-ABS style). Regardless, both beam/knuckle assemblies look identical to me.

I just wanted to make sure that the balljoints should in fact be the same, regardless of year. (If it comes down to something as stupid as the pinch bolt size, obviosuly I'm not overly concerned with that)

4x4junkie, I've read through enough of your posts on here to know that you are indeed quite familiar with the ford TTB setups (swapping in D44 beams, spacing out coil buckets, etc.) I figure if anyone knows, it's most likely the guys on this forum. If you say that the ball joints should interchange, that's good enough for me.

I agree with you that Moog is not the way to go. Like yourself, I much prefer the Dana/Perfect Circle stuff, but I just happened to notice Moog making a big stink about the date stuff, that I figured I'd ask just to find out what was behind all of that.

Also, thanks for the welcome.


-Hans

 

[4x4junkie]

One difference I do recall seeing on some axles (though I don't recall what years they were)...

Some have the head of the pinch bolt recessed inside a little tube or barrel piece on the end of the beam, whereas others are just out in the open. I didn't notice if the bolt used was a different length, however like you said, something like this shouldn't be a big issue.

Yeah I wouldn't worry about the joints. If there was an actual difference, I'm sure I would've heard something about it by now after 10 years bouncing around these forums.

Good luck on it.