D35 needs axle U-Joints replaced. Any how to's?

[shane96ranger]

No they are not as good...there is no replacement for the 5-760X other than super joints and likes.

If they don't have the circular forging pattern on the cross like shown in the pic, you can bet your behind they are not as good as a Spicer 760 (if the DO have the pattern, then they are probably reboxed Spicers).

Thank you gentlemen for your help. Spicer 5-760X's it is then. I didn't want to take the Napa guys advice on them. BTW, I already got Moog ball joints on the way. I'm also going to put my spacers in (washers) while it's all apart.

I wonder - should I be looking into replacing the camber bushings at the same time? And should I be looking at anything other than factory if I'm only leveling it?

 

[4x4junkie]

Hopefully you have better luck with those Moog ball joints than i did... (6 months for the cheap dust boots to split, 1.5 years (3500 miles) for them to get sloppy). I could've just as well bought cheap imported ones for 1/3 the price.

My luck has been far better with Spicer (or Raybestos) "Professional Grade" joints (8 years, 40K miles and still going strong). If you're still able cancel that order, I'd probably suggest doing so. The Spicer/Raybestos is almost the same price too.



As for the camber bushings, occasionally you can spin your factory ones around and get it to work with a leveling kit or coil spacers, though there's no guarantees (every truck is different).
If you have to buy bushings, then definitely get adjustable (2-piece) ones. They're much easier to work with no matter how you look at it.

 

[shane96ranger]

Hopefully you have better luck with those Moog ball joints than i did... (6 months for the cheap dust boots to split, 1.5 years (3500 miles) for them to get sloppy). I could've just as well bought cheap imported ones for 1/3 the price.

My luck has been far better with Spicer (or Raybestos) "Professional Grade" joints (8 years, 40K miles and still going strong). If you're still able cancel that order, I'd probably suggest doing so. The Spicer/Raybestos is almost the same price too.



As for the camber bushings, occasionally you can spin your factory ones around and get it to work with a leveling kit or coil spacers, though there's no guarantees (every truck is different).
If you have to buy bushings, then definitely get adjustable (2-piece) ones. They're much easier to work with no matter how you look at it.

I bought the Moog's on Ebay from an individual, so I'm in them now. That's the first negative experience I've heard of with Moog stuff. I didn't really search on TRS much about that though......hopefully it don't bite me in the ass.

 

[brinker88]

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-...eplace-3rd-member-twin-traction-beam-d35.html

Heres a step by step writeup I did on another forum

 

[shane96ranger]

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-...eplace-3rd-member-twin-traction-beam-d35.html

Heres a step by step writeup I did on another forum

Nice write up man. I must say, that diff was pretty trashed.

 

[4x4junkie]

I bought the Moog's on Ebay from an individual, so I'm in them now. That's the first negative experience I've heard of with Moog stuff. I didn't really search on TRS much about that though......hopefully it don't bite me in the ass.

I think people revere the Moog name like some people one of the Japanese automakers (the same one that's had umpteen recalls & buybacks for eleventy million vehicles over the last few years lol).

Moog does have some decent products (I've had no issues at all with their tie rod ends, as well as most products I've bought under their parent company's label Federal Mogul), but the balljoints completely caught me off-guard. Having had a set of Spicers in my Ranger for the last 7 years at the time, it seemed like a no-brainer what to replace them with (I would've bought Spicers the first time if the damn store (Carquest) hadn't stopped selling them).

I s'pose it could be possible I got a couple defective ones (both lowers), but even just by appearance, the Spicer's shiny gold-zinc anodized body and brightly polished stud just screams of a much higher quality part than the Moog with it's overall dull appearance (plus they come with urethane boots instead of rubber).
(I should know fairly shortly if I just had defective ones, I actually still have one Moog in my frontend that I bought originally thinking the first one failed due to the split dust boot)

 

[brinker88]

Nice write up man. I must say, that diff was pretty trashed.

Yea, that was what was in the truck when I bought it...just got around to fixing it...lmao

Hell of a job, but I've now got 4x4 for under $300