D35 compared to 44 strength

[Bracket racer]

I’ve got a d35 in my 91 ranger with 35x12.5x15’s.
I did the c clip eliminator mod, put in 760 u joints and ground the axles and replaced the joint c clips with snap rings.
Breaking axles... constantly. Yes I abuse this thing, but I need it to withstand my abuse.
I have a complete d44 ttb but is it any stronger/worth the bother of switching or should I go straight one ton axles?
I’m not spending $$$ on axles made of unobtainium or billet widgets.

Next question is why are my hubs not breaking before the axle? I thought they were the “fuse”?

 

[Curious Hound]

I would recommend spending an hour or so reading in the tech library. Start with This article.

Pictures of your breakage might help determine why you are breaking axles. Could it be due to material removed when you grind them for the full retaining rings? I've done that mod. But I haven't broken anything yet. Judging by your multiple threads on this matter, you may need to upgrade to 1 ton axles or start saving up for aftermarket unobtainium parts.

Or don't drive it so rough.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

D44 uses the same crosses as the D35...

Having no experience with D35 breakage (knocking on wood) I have heard that the 44 isn't much of a step up aside from wheel bearings and hubs.

Are you breaking both sides or just the passenger?

 

[Bracket racer]

I've broke the passenger twice and caught the drivers side when it spit out a cap. I don't have it apart yet, fixing the transmission in the wife explorer.(off road truck)
Actually, now that I think of it, I tore the ears off the pass side stub in the diff, and twice the outer u joint. I'm shearing the ears off the axle, not in where I ground it but the outer loops about half way around the cap.
I run it hard as I carry the tools, do the recoveries, etc. I think the problem is, I only weigh about 3000# or so and I recover 6-7000# half/3/4 tons. I broke my new 20,000# 3" tow strap and stalled the 10,000# winch numerous times (while strapped to a tree)

I found a pair of d60's from a dodge and a d60/stirling from a 2006 f350. Haven't decided yet but d35's don't seem to be working for me. I was keeping the truck narrow so I can recover side by sides on their trails but replacing parts every couple weeks is not fun.

Bottom line, if a d44 won't be much of a step up, I'm not doing it. I bought a 93 f150 specifically to do the knuckle swap, but I've never broke a hub and don't need bigger brakes. Soooo, I've got a pile of work ahead of me.

 

[Curious Hound]

I've broke the passenger twice and caught the drivers side when it spit out a cap. I don't have it apart yet, fixing the transmission in the wife explorer.(off road truck)
Actually, now that I think of it, I tore the ears off the pass side stub in the diff, and twice the outer u joint. I'm shearing the ears off the axle, not in where I ground it but the outer loops about half way around the cap.
I run it hard as I carry the tools, do the recoveries, etc. I think the problem is, I only weigh about 3000# or so and I recover 6-7000# half/3/4 tons. I broke my new 20,000# 3" tow strap and stalled the 10,000# winch numerous times (while strapped to a tree)

I found a pair of d60's from a dodge and a d60/stirling from a 2006 f350. Haven't decided yet but d35's don't seem to be working for me. I was keeping the truck narrow so I can recover side by sides on their trails but replacing parts every couple weeks is not fun.

Bottom line, if a d44 won't be much of a step up, I'm not doing it. I bought a 93 f150 specifically to do the knuckle swap, but I've never broke a hub and don't need bigger brakes. Soooo, I've got a pile of work ahead of me.

Sounds like you have a BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand$)

 

[Bracket racer]

 

[Bracket racer]

And the wife explorer (Dora...)

 

[Bracket racer]

Sounds like you have a BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand$)

Is that like a jeep? (Just empty every pocket)

 

[Bracket racer]

36 years in the army as a tank mechanic...that might be influencing my expectations...not sure...lol!


Edit: I just noticed my signature, "35's, bald so I don't break parts". Well dang it, I replaced the old 35's with newer ones...maybe that's why I'm breaking stuff?

The throttle is supposed to be like an on/off switch right? Idle/wide f***ing open?

 

[Curious Hound]

36 years in the army as a tank mechanic...that might be influencing my expectations...not sure...lol!


Edit: I just noticed my signature, "35's, bald so I don't break parts". Well dang it, I replaced the old 35's with newer ones...maybe that's why I'm breaking stuff?

The throttle is supposed to be like an on/off switch right? Idle/wide f***ing open?

This post explains a lot. Not saying there’s anything wrong with these ideas. They just explain the breakage. With someone like you on the trail ride, it takes the pressure off the rest of us. We can relax and have fun at our liesure while watching your carnage. Please show up at the next TRS trail ride.

 

[scotts90ranger]

It sounds like you might be spitting caps even though you have full clips, I've heard mixed things about doing the full circlip with some still having cap spitting problems, myself I put my D35 in in March of 2011 with full circlips and clearancing the center shaft and the window in the passenger side beam and haven't broken a shaft, I used to carry spare shafts but gave up on that a few years ago... I'm driving harder now so I need to start again...

For a little extra protection, tack welding the caps to the shaft wouldn't hurt, for strength I would do it on the meat not on the strap part.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I’ve got a d35 in my 91 ranger with 35x12.5x15’s.
I did the c clip eliminator mod, put in 760 u joints and ground the axles and replaced the joint c clips with snap rings.
Breaking axles... constantly. Yes I abuse this thing, but I need it to withstand my abuse.
I have a complete d44 ttb but is it any stronger/worth the bother of switching or should I go straight one ton axles?
I’m not spending $$$ on axles made of unobtainium or billet widgets.

Next question is why are my hubs not breaking before the axle? I thought they were the “fuse”?

Depends how much harder you wanna abuse it. Eventually the stuff around it will become the weak link, and need beefing up too. Plus the heavier you go, the stronger it will need to be. Having said that, I'd slap in the D44, or parts of it at least. Maybe then go one ton solid if that breaks, which would take major abuse to do with 35's.

No need for billet widgets or unobtanium, maybe just a whiz bang or two...and lots of elbow grease.

Probably because you are thinking about them is why they aren't breaking. Murphy is not that nice, its never the expected stuff that breaks.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

maybe some new fenders would help

 

[Bracket racer]

Good points guys. I know I run it hard and am concerned with doing the same repair over and over. I like overkill so if a 31” is big enough, I go 35”. If 44 is good enough, go 60. Not a fan of upgrading, breaking the next part, upgrading a bit more then breaking it again.
I thought a 35” with a d35 upgraded with the mods I did would be good. And, for 99% of the runs I do, it is. But then... i razz it and bang.
I’m now contemplating the 60’s I found on Facebook and all the work it’s going to require as well as the downtime. It’s either buy another inner and outer right axle and carry on, or start another big project when I’m in the middle of rebuilding the mustang for drag racing next year.
I just found a 44 out of an early bronco too, that’s also an option I guess if I want to try solid 44.
Maybe that’s the “in between “ before stepping up to full width 60’s?

 

[Shran]

That truck is awesome... it just screams old school TRS.

I suspect you are spitting caps like Scott said. I'd try tacking them in place... I think the full circle clips are a waste of time if you've got good U joints and tacked caps.

That Early Bronco D44 is going to be a big downgrade. The stock shafts in those suck and they are low pinion. If you really want a D44, I'd look for a 75-77 out of an F150, the one with weld on C wedges that you can cut off and reposition, or you could narrow a 78-79 axle (what I did.) I had an EB D44 in my truck for a while and took it out.

At this point in time though it's kinda hard to justify all that work when you can find a set of super duty axles cheap that are stupid strong. There are a couple companies making weld on truss kits for the front that give you places to mount springs/links/etc. That's the route I would go.