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D35 1993 stock hubs how to reassemble pic


blue93stx

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
3
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
I took both sides of my Dana 35 apart at the same time and shuffled the pieces just for fun. Now I'm not sure I'm having fun anymore.

The axle has the original automatic locking hubs but the wonderful picture that is on TRS from Dana/Spicer shows the parts from a manual hub setup (I think). My collection of parts is different!

I've searched hi/low for a picture to guide me in reassembly, but here I am with a fancy toothed washer and a flat C shaped snap ring left over that don't seem to fit. (Seems that the washer goes on then the snap ring in the groove on the axle but I'm about .010" shy of being able to make that happen.
(I put new bearings, U-joints, Rotors in).

Has anyone got a picture of this thing's assembly sequence? The axle is labeled 610419-4 31aug93 3.73 It's got an A4LD trans and pushbutton 4x4/low range. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
The toothed washer goes directly under the snap ring, off the end of the spindle. It's a bit of a snug fit; you have to install it pretty close to square or it won't go. It IS a slip fit; don't tap it in.
 
d35 auto hubs clarification

Thanks for the replys!

Just to clarify - This is an automatic hub axle. All stock and gonna stay that way. I just need to know how it goes back together.

The toothed washer slides over the first inch of splines, then over the snap ring groove, then onto the small set of splines? Then the snap ring holds it in place?

That's what i tried to do but the axle won't come out of the spindle far enough. Is this the snug fit you're talking about?

Still want to see a picture of the stock auto hubs setup.

Thanks again!
 
Reach behind the rotor/knuckle to the first axle U-joint, and pull it towards you. Then, there should be enough room.
 
dana35 auto hubs axle assembly debacle

I've got a serious prybar pushing the axle outboard and still can't get that pesky snapring on.

Okay maybe I left out one teensy detail in my story.

When removing the spindle from the knuckle, I found that "tapping the spindle with a leather or plastic hammer to loosten it" didn't quite work.

Instead, I threaded the spindle nut down onto the spindle and beat the snot out of the nut with a 3 pound hammer. This was required on both sides. I did some serious grinding/filing/sanding to get the nuts back to usable condition but have noticed several "notes" that recommend I replace the nuts.

Maybe that's what's up? New spindle nuts should be on my shopping list?

Or maybe my bearing cups in the new rotor aren't seated!? ( I just thought of this - the rotor came with the cups installed)

advice?

Thanks!
 
No, the rotor can be flapping in the breeze and it won't do what you're describing.

The other side is held in by a rigid seal behind the spindle.

It doesn't take a prybar. It takes a firm grab with your fingers.

You do need new spindle nuts, but that's not causing your problem. Unless your spindle nuts are hanging off the end of the spindle (they really should even be close).
 
This is the assembly of a stock hub with a caged needle bearing.
101_1222.jpg

101_1223.jpg

101_1224.jpg

101_1225.jpg


This is a stock hub with a brass bushing. Feel free to PM me with questions.
101_1215.jpg

101_1217.jpg

101_1218.jpg

101_1221.jpg


Don't forget to grease thoroughly when reassembling!
 
Last edited:
just get a pair of plyers, channle locks work best, grab the end of the shaft with the plyers and pull tords you. are you talking about the black cam part is hard to get on? if so us a hammer and hit it on, not hard though.
 
google warn hub conversion , you will find a picture showing what to keep from your auto hub...it shows a exploded view of the auto hub
 
Make sure you don't have an extra plastic shim around the base of the axleshaft behind the spindle (or that it's not inverted).
 

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