Crazy idea or not? AC Upgrade

[Demi_II]

Im prepping my B2 for a move to Phoenix. Im looking to upgrade to a Explorer radiator (AT) to make sure the little fella doesnt over heat. As Im sure you guys know there are ports for the transmission cooler. Is it possible, smart, feasible, thermodynamically sound, ect. to fab up some AC line fittings to run from the stock condenser to the tranny cooler side of the radiator, to get more heat removed from the AC lines? I dont know if Im explaining this well, but essentially the line would run from the compressor, to the stock condenser to the tranny cooler to the evaporator. Anyone ever tried this? Worth the effort? AC does pretty darn well as it is, but at 115 degrees outside, Im guessing its going to have a hard time keeping up.

 

[4x4junkie]

Doubtful it would do anything, since it's in contact with the 195° engine coolant (infact this may hurt it's performance).

Mine's using all stock parts (converted to R-134a w/pag-46 lubricant) and it keeps things comfortable in 110° temps without any issue... I'm sure 5° more wouldn't be a problem.

You'll have far more to gain simply by adding additional thermal insulation to your doors, rear walls, roof, and also the floor (if you don't have the factory carpeting), and sealing any air leaks (such as replacing missing moisture barriers in your doors and any damaged weatherstripping).

 

[adsm08]

No, plumbing the trans cooler into the A/C system is not going to get you colder air. The trans cooler is not sealed up well enough to retain refrigerant, for one thing. Also, the condenser is placed in front of the radiator so that it isn't picking up heat from the radiator. Running refrigerant past the radiator core will defeat that purpose.

 

[veefer800canuck]

And the pressures involved may be higher than the tranny cooler can handle.

You'll gain more from cleaning your condenser of bugs and junk, and making sure your system is filled correctly.

Tint your windows as much as the law will allow, that may help too.


If you really wanted to go hog wild, how about an electric pusher fan on the front of the condenser to augment the engine driven one behind the rad? Could probably get one from the junkyard cheap from a late model car or truck and adapt it.

 

[adsm08]

Pusher fans aren't really that great. They block a big portion of the center of the cooler.

I saw on here a while ago where a guy squeezed a few degrees out of his AC by wrapping the lines in foam pipe wrapping and thermal tape. This was a Texas member, said he was reading 34 degrees at the register. Any colder and you ice the evap core, makes the AC stop working.

 

[Demi_II]

Thanks guys I was thinking thats the case. I did the foam wrap and it did indeed cool things off a bit. I need to insulate the vapor can as well. Im thinking a double condenser system could work. I want siberian winter blowing out of this thing. I pack 80lbs of sound deadening and closed cell foam in the deuce and it really helped a lot, not to mention it sounds like a lexus. The lines running to the compressor are really cold, leaving me to wonder how much could be gained with a large air heat exchanger. Anyone play with that?

 

[4x4junkie]

I would suggest just insulate (wrap) the return line to the compressor. This will help keep the refrigerant vapor cooler so that when it reaches the compressor and is sent to the condenser it will still be at a cooler temp (thus denser) than it would otherwise and will condense back into a liquid faster (improving efficiency).

Not a bad idea to put insulation on the accumulator and the evaporator box as well... any exposed parts that are part of the low-pressure side of the system (Ford actually started doing this from the factory when they switched to R-134a mid-year '94 models).

 

[adsm08]

I want siberian winter blowing out of this thing.

Not practical. Air conditioners remove humidity from the air, that means water vapor condenses on the evaporator (confusing, I know). Because of this pretty much every A/C system made is in some way limited to 35* at the evap. That's because if you get it much colder you make ice, which makes for no cold air because it blocks the air flow.

 

[Demi_II]

I would suggest just insulate (wrap) the return line to the compressor. This will help keep the refrigerant vapor cooler so that when it reaches the compressor and is sent to the condenser it will still be at a cooler temp (thus denser) than it would otherwise and will condense back into a liquid faster (improving efficiency).

Not a bad idea to put insulation on the accumulator and the evaporator box as well... any exposed parts that are part of the low-pressure side of the system (Ford actually started doing this from the factory when they switched to R-134a mid-year '94 models).

Yep did everything but the can so far. It did make a difference. I need to get in there and get the can done too.

Not practical. Air conditioners remove humidity from the air, that means water vapor condenses on the evaporator (confusing, I know). Because of this pretty much every A/C system made is in some way limited to 35* at the evap. That's because if you get it much colder you make ice, which makes for no cold air because it blocks the air flow.

If i got anywhere near that i would be overjoyed. Shit if it would blow 50 i would loose my mind.

 

[adsm08]

Have you considered the possibility that the system is not fully charged? I know my BII's AC leaks. When I charge it up it will blow 30 odd degrees all day long for about two weeks, then it's back into the 50s again.

I am not dependent on AC to survive the summer though, since I spend all day in the heat anyway, so I won't spend the money to fix it.

 

[Demi_II]

Well i had it filled last summer, and it blows cold enough to make the GF uncomfortable. Could be low but i think im just looking for a project and shooting for silly.

 

[4x4junkie]

Stick a thermometer in your center-right vent... With the blower on Hi the air coming out should be between 38-45°F. With the blower on Lo, it should be 35-40°F (this while you are moving... it's normal for the temps to rise maybe 10° or so if you're stopped or are stuck in traffic).

If it's a lot warmer than that, I would suspect the refrigerant charge is low or there's some contaminants in the system.

(was about 95°F out when I took that pic)

 

[adsm08]

i think im just looking for a project and shooting for silly.

Well this at least is correct.

I do agree that the trans cooler would probably not take the pressures involved either. It is meant for a system that has about 30 to 100 PSI. In the temps that you mentioned the high side of the AC system (the side where the cooling that you are looking for happens) can produce operational pressures near 300 PSI.