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Crank no start, have both spark and fuel


Tgeddes

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2023
Messages
11
City
Thordog3
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
NEED HELP! CRANK NO START!

I bought this bronco ii few months ago, motor had bad knock from bad main bearing and leaked oil but otherwise started up and ran no problem . I pulled the motor and purchased a rebuilt one. All I did was swap over accessories from old motor to new motor.

Installed new motor, hooked everything up and cranked but no start. I have spark to all 6 plugs Doesn’t sputter or anything with starter fluid. I have timed the distributor a dozen different times. Got cylinder 1 on TDC on compression stroke, same result, pulled distributor, 180 degree flip, same result.

I haven’t tested compression for exact measurements but I know each cylinder has compression. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
 
Welcome to TRS :)

Gasoline engines need 3 things to fire/start
Computers and/or electronics can't/don't change that
Spark, at the right time
Fuel, mixed with air
Compression, above 120psi

Test compression, for sure, its mechanical, no grey area, good or bad, so take that off the table first, then you can look at spark or fuel
2.9l should be 150psi+

Gasoline in a gas tank lasts 6 months, then its no longer "fuel", a good weed killer, but NOT fuel for a gasoline engine

Crank engine over a few times
Pull out any spark plug
Should be WET with fuel
Light the tip with match or lighter, should burn fast and bright, if it doesn't then is NOT fuel
If tip is DRY then fuel system issue, but engine should start by spraying fuel into engine, IF.....compression and spark are OK

Gasoline can not be ignited by a spark, yes the movie guys take liberties with that one, lol
Only gasoline VAPOR can be ignited by a spark, that's why 120psi+ compression is required, it vaporizes the gasoline so it can be ignited by a spark plug
And its why old gasoline is not a fuel, most of its "vapor" has been lost through evaporation, so can't be vaporized
 
Last edited:
Just my crazy mind working.. but has it been spun over enough to get oil pressure up in the lifters. Or pre loaded on oil pressure before put fully together. Meaning. I had a couple oil pump shafts to distributors welded together and would use a drill on low speed to prime the oil to lifters before its first start after building
 
I get lost on the electrical. I miss the carburetor and vacuum days 🤣
 
I got codes for the PIP sensor and MAP sensor, would those two failures cause a no start?

the thing that gets me is I have already swapped out the distributor to a new one
 
PIP is the timing signal for spark and injectors so YES, no PIP would cause a No Start
The PIP comes from the TFI Module, it is generated by the Hall Effect Sensor inside the distributor
New Distributor means.........NEVER EVER tested distributor, not "tested and works"
What is the exact code number?


MAP issue, probably not but would cause rough running, MAP sensor is how the computer calculates engine Load, it reads vacuum level in the intake manifold
Also with key on, before starting, it reads outside barometric pressure, which changes by elevation above sea level
 
I got the following codes.
21-Engine coolant temp out of self test range
23-Throttle Position out of self test range
24-Air change temp out of self test range
89-Clutch converter override circuit failure
86-Shift solenoid circuit failure
14-PIP circuit failure
22-MAP out of self test range
 
Self test codes can be ignored unless you followed the Self Test procedures, did you?

Which leaves
89-Clutch converter override circuit failure
86-Shift solenoid circuit failure
Automatic transmission codes, check the wires at the transmission end, 3 wire plug in drivers side just in front of shift rod

14-PIP circuit failure

Know about TFI but nor so much about DuraSpark but code 14 was "usually" a bad pickup coil in the distributor, "sensor" in distributor

The 3 connector Duraspark was a UIM(Universal ignition module)
They seemed to last so

The 3rd connector is for an altitude sensor from what I read
 
MAP can cause a no start. It did on mine anyways.

Just for shits try cracking the throttle open about 1/4 while you crank.

If PIP failed i dont think you would have spark.
 

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