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Constant code


2004 4.0l SOHC Ranger

P1383 Cam Timing Advance is excessive

Cam sensor is on driver side valve cover, this code would mean Crank sensor and Cam sensor are not reporting the same timing, so possible timing chain issue
Do you have an engine rattle at start up or mid-RPM?

Next step would be compression test on a few cylinders to confirm or dispel valve timing issue
4.0l SOHC runs 9.7:1 ratio so 170+psi would be expected
Do at least 2 cylinders on drivers side and 2 on passenger side, obviously all 6 would be best :)

P2005 references intake runner control system which was only on 2001-2003 Ranger 4cylinder the 2.3l DOHC engine, so......................?????

Maybe both codes are a sign computer is "losing it"

Any symptoms?
 
Its a 2004 4.0 v6 sohc Ive replaced both cam and crank sensors . .Cranks but no start only getting 5.6 v to the inertia switch and 2. something to the fuel pump .. I power probed the relay and fuse both at 12.2 volts ..since its nice finally here in Maine i can do a compression and leak down ..but i do not think its it ..My battery drops like a rock after a few cranks ..I have recoded it and I have several codes out of the blue P0025,C1300,P0034,P0014 ,P0073,P1800 and the fuel tank pressure is 2.5 v......I have no idea about the 20005 code says about an open circuit fuel shutoff A I didnt think it was on a 4.0..maybe a ghost ?


Thanks
 
A bunch of random codes = voltage issue to PCM.
 
With key on, 5 to 8 volts at inertia switch is NORMAL, its the monitor voltage from the computer

Did you do 50/50 test?
Spray fuel into the intake and then try to start engine
If its starts and then dies Spark/compression is OK and no fuel is the problem
If it does NOT start then its a Spark OR Compression issue
50/50 instant results, no guessing

Do this test FIRST anytime you have a crank but no start issue on any engine, lawn mower or Ferrari, cut your diagnoses time in half

When you turn on the key you can HEAR the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, but just for 2 seconds, its not quiet, a HUMMM from back of cab area
Repeat key OFF and ON as much as you like to either confirm you hear it or don't hear it

If you have a volt meter test the battery
12.8volt is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a dead or dying battery
When a starter motor is activated battery voltage will drop 2.5volts because of the large AMP draw of turning the engine

If system voltage drops below 9.5volts during cranking some electronics will reboot and cause a no start, from low voltage, as said by Dirtman
 
Ok well interesting ...Lets be honest i know little or nothing about the computer diagnostic stuff ....trying to figure out how to go about getting my truck fixed ,,,,,,Only gauge they had on my old ford was a gas gauge .....So i am newbie at the computer stuff ..so any advice on how to check and what to check for would be appreciated
 
With key on, 5 to 8 volts at inertia switch is NORMAL, its the monitor voltage from the computer

Did you do 50/50 test?
Spray fuel into the intake and then try to start engine
If its starts and then dies Spark/compression is OK and no fuel is the problem
If it does NOT start then its a Spark OR Compression issue
50/50 instant results, no guessing

Do this test FIRST anytime you have a crank but no start issue on any engine

When you turn on the key you can HEAR the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, but just for 2 seconds, its not quiet, a HUMMM from back of cab area
Repeat key OFF and ON as much as you like to either confirm you hear it or don't hear it

If you have a volt meter test the battery
12.8volt is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a dead or dying battery
When a starter motor is activated battery voltage will drop 2.5volts because of the large AMP draw of turning the engine

If system voltage drops below 9.5volts during cranking some electronics will reboot and cause a no start, from low voltage, as said by Dirtman
Thanks will do
 
If 50/50 test doesn't get a startup then do compression test next, the timing chains are a known issue with 4.0l SOHC engines, so best to get it off the table or not waste time or money on non-fixes if it is a compression issue
 

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