Integrated electronic/mechanical EGR valves
This type of valve has different names with each manufacturer. It is easily identified because it has a single vacuum source inlet and a three-wire electrical connector. Mechanically, it operates like a single diaphragm EGR valve with a twist. It has a pintle position sensor riding atop the EGR diaphragm. This tells the PCM the amount of EGR valve opening as it is actuated. The PCM then commands a pulse width modulated solenoid to apply an appropriate amount of vacuum on-time. GM makes one of these units that has the integral pintle sensor and an integral solenoid with air filter. The only separately serviceable part is the air filter. Ford, Honda and Mazda all use a variation of this design with remotely mounted solenoids. The idea behind the pintle sensor is to give the PCM precise feedback as to exactly where the EGR valve is positioned. The PCM can then modulate the vacuum signal to it accordingly. The pintle position sensor is a potentiometer. Like a throttle position sensor, it is a variable resistor. The wiper arm within the sensor can wear and develop opens in the sensor return signal. A sweep test with a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) or scope can be used to test the sensor. The PCM has an internal "map" of where the pintle sensor should be at any given time. If the sensor's voltage reading is too high or low, a trouble code will be set. With Fords, it is the infamous Code 31. This code could be caused by several different factors.
If the pintle position sensor (Ford calls it the EVP sensor) is shorted or open, you could have a code set.
If the EGR valve becomes carboned up and does not seat fully, the EVP sensor gives a high reading and a code is set.
If the diaphragm of the EGR valve is bad, then it, too, is flagged.
The fix
On Fords and Mazdas, the only sure fix is to replace the sensor and valve as an assembly. Sometimes you can get temporary relief by filing down the pintle sensor stem to lower the sensor return voltage to specs. Or you could add a thicker gasket between the valve and sensor. You can spend a lot of time trying to capture the intermittent failure in the act. This is not recommended. The codes are rarely false. Note that there are two interchangeable sensors; one is gray and the other is black. Key-on-engine-off (KOEO) voltage for the gray sensor is 0.40 volt and for the black sensor is about 0.83 volt. Don't mix them up, or Code 31 won't go away
Does all of this sound logical?
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