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clutch wont fully disengage Master or Slave?


Loud Ranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2008
Messages
441
City
MN
Vehicle Year
'95
Transmission
Manual
So lately my clutch wont disengage all the way. If i start it in gear it rolls forward unless i hold the brakes too. It wont go into 1st or reverse when stopped so i have to put it in 1st or 2nd while slowing down then hold the clutch and brake to the floor at lights. It feels like theres not much clutch pedal at all till about halfway down then its still pretty soft. After about 10 mins of driving its gets easy to shift into gear when its warmed up and the pedal will build pressure.

If i had air in the system it would always be soft right even after warming up?
Im thinking its a bad master since it wont build pressure and the clutch pedal was making a weird chirping squeaking sound before this started happening. That and the clutch and slave were replaced 2 years ago.

Hoping i can get this straightened out before winter since my only other transportation is a motorcycle which isnt gonna cut it in a mn winter.
 
The chirping/squeaking may be where the master cylinder pushrod meets the pedal. There should be a plastic bushing there. Mine fell out in the past and made a pretty annoying squeak when depressing the clutch.
 
Sounds like air in the system to me...
Both air and fluid expand some with heat, so the fact it gets a little better after warming up doesn't sound too unusual to me.

I would say try bleeding the system (it can be a PITA to get all the air out however, check the sticky post up top here for a video on bleeding tips).

If you find your reservoir empty though, then chances are good your slave could be leaking, and is how the air got in there.
 
Ya sorry forgot about this thread, The slave was leaking and the master wouldnt build much pressure so after a new clutch, master, slave and a couple u joints that got tore up it drives like new again. I replaced the clutch anyways even though it was fine so if anybody wants a slightly used 4.0 clutch for a 2.9 upgrade let me know haha.
 
Now that is the way to do a clutch. If you get a bid on replacing the slave cylinder at your local shop. Buy the complete clutch including flywheel master and slave, bench bleed the master and install the clutch. You can even replace both the rear main seal and the input shaft seal and still be money ahead.
 
Now that is the way to do a clutch. If you get a bid on replacing the slave cylinder at your local shop. Buy the complete clutch including flywheel master and slave, bench bleed the master and install the clutch. You can even replace both the rear main seal and the input shaft seal and still be money ahead.

speaking of the rear main seal im wishing i would have done that too, changed my oil last night and saw a drop of oil between the motor and trans. not sure if the seal is leaking or not and it only leaks/burns less than a qt over 7-8k miles but wish i would have thought of it.

the clutch and slave were replaced right before i bought it but now i put in the luk slave with the upgraded seal and luk clutch kit so hopefully this slave lasts longer than 3 years.
 
i put in the luk slave with the upgraded seal and luk clutch kit so hopefully this slave lasts longer than 3 years.

Is "luk" a decent choice for slave cylinders for these? I didn't know if people here had any name brand choice?
 

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