Teddlet
Member
Howdy,
I've got a 2004 4x4 Ranger with the 4.0L SOHC V6, M5od-R1HD Transmission with an electric T-Case and 323246 miles on it. I just installed a new to me M5od-R1HD with supposedly 77K on it, I got a new LUK self adjusting clutch kit and slave cylinder and put them on with it (tripple checked that I put the side that said flywheel to the flywheel). The transmission spun & shifted like butter on the bench before install and shifts well with the engine off. Went to bleed the slave per the instructions that came with them and the slave wouldn't move enough to engage the clutch (it moves roughly 1/2" in the bellhousing) Tried the method laid out in the TRS Tech Articles (still only 1/2" of travel & won't shift with the engine on). Pulled the master cylinder (appeared to be original to the truck) and followed the bench bleeding procedure from the video in the Tech Articles, put it back in the truck and when not connected to the slave it was spongy. Got a new master cylinder. Bench bleed the new one per the video and got it rock hard when not connected to the slave. Repeated the bleed instructions from the LUK kit & it still won't go into gear with the truck running. Disconnected the master from slave, still rock hard. Started over following the bleed instructions from the TRS Tech Article, still wouldn't go into gear. Disconnected the master to check it was still hard when not attached to slave, still hard. Lots of folks on the internet say to press the clutch and let it spring back up around 10 times every 5 minutes for a rep of 4 once you've bleed it. I've done that too after each bleed procedure. Still won't go into gear with the engine running.
WTF am I missing? Did I need to adjust something on the clutch when I installed it? I've reread the clutch instructions 20ish times and it says to just bolt it on. I've dumped 2+ pints of brake fluid on to the ground with no bubbles coming out of the slave and there is definately not an air bubble stuck in the dumbass master cylinder as its has 0 travel when not attached to the slave. Due to the shop I took my original transmission to for rebuild breaking the housing on it and then waiting for the new to me one to arrive, my truck has been down for 4 weeks now and I'm beginning to lose patience. Folks talk about using tubing when they bleed the slave, I tried that but it just made it to hard to reliably get the bleeder closed. Is that an integral aspect to the bleed procedure?
I've got a 2004 4x4 Ranger with the 4.0L SOHC V6, M5od-R1HD Transmission with an electric T-Case and 323246 miles on it. I just installed a new to me M5od-R1HD with supposedly 77K on it, I got a new LUK self adjusting clutch kit and slave cylinder and put them on with it (tripple checked that I put the side that said flywheel to the flywheel). The transmission spun & shifted like butter on the bench before install and shifts well with the engine off. Went to bleed the slave per the instructions that came with them and the slave wouldn't move enough to engage the clutch (it moves roughly 1/2" in the bellhousing) Tried the method laid out in the TRS Tech Articles (still only 1/2" of travel & won't shift with the engine on). Pulled the master cylinder (appeared to be original to the truck) and followed the bench bleeding procedure from the video in the Tech Articles, put it back in the truck and when not connected to the slave it was spongy. Got a new master cylinder. Bench bleed the new one per the video and got it rock hard when not connected to the slave. Repeated the bleed instructions from the LUK kit & it still won't go into gear with the truck running. Disconnected the master from slave, still rock hard. Started over following the bleed instructions from the TRS Tech Article, still wouldn't go into gear. Disconnected the master to check it was still hard when not attached to slave, still hard. Lots of folks on the internet say to press the clutch and let it spring back up around 10 times every 5 minutes for a rep of 4 once you've bleed it. I've done that too after each bleed procedure. Still won't go into gear with the engine running.
WTF am I missing? Did I need to adjust something on the clutch when I installed it? I've reread the clutch instructions 20ish times and it says to just bolt it on. I've dumped 2+ pints of brake fluid on to the ground with no bubbles coming out of the slave and there is definately not an air bubble stuck in the dumbass master cylinder as its has 0 travel when not attached to the slave. Due to the shop I took my original transmission to for rebuild breaking the housing on it and then waiting for the new to me one to arrive, my truck has been down for 4 weeks now and I'm beginning to lose patience. Folks talk about using tubing when they bleed the slave, I tried that but it just made it to hard to reliably get the bleeder closed. Is that an integral aspect to the bleed procedure?