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2.3L ('83-'97) Clutch replacement


May I ask what brand and number slave cylinder you got, and from where?

PFSC12596 is one I just got at AZ, made in Mexico by FTE Automotive\
It went in and works just fine in mine, first pedal it had a clutch
 
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What gear is the transmission in?
 
May I ask what brand and number slave cylinder you got, and from where?

PFSC12596 is one I just got at AZ, made in Mexico by FTE Automotive\
It went in and works just fine in mine, first pedal it had a clutch
Duralast PFHK020 from Autozone
 
Is the transmission in neutral?
 
Have you tried connecting the hydraulic line to the master before pushing the transmission in place? That might help. I don't think I did that but don't remember... I have had to pull the transmission in place the last bit with the bolts before, but 1/2" sounds like more than I remember...
 
Have you tried connecting the hydraulic line to the master before pushing the transmission in place? That might help. I don't think I did that but don't remember... I have had to pull the transmission in place the last bit with the bolts before, but 1/2" sounds like more than I remember...
No I haven't tried that. I've previously only done this with clutch forks and cable clutches, first hydraulic type. I considered pulling it in w bolts, ill give it another shot tomorrow, see if I can't get a borescope in there to confirm what's happening
 
Please use great caution with that, it can lead to something getting broken :/
Is that a new pilot bearing you're using, have you checked it beside the old one?
 
Assuming an alignment tool was used when the friction disc and pressure plate were bolted to the flywheel, the last 1/2" is likely the compression of the pressure plate springs as the input shaft and pilot bearing should be lined up. Puck style clutches have stiffer springs with heavier pedal feel from what I hear (I went with Centerforce standard friction disc for drivability, offroading with a clutch switch didn't sound fun...) so it might be harder to get it stabbed in the last little bit. If you do try to pull it together with bolts use the outside two and walk it in a couple turns at a time side to side not just driving one home then the other...
 
The bolts can certainly help bring it together just don't bind them up, it can certainly break stuff

Just some bolts that keep it from backing out, even while you push and twist on it, not likely to really break anything, just don't bind them up and then keep on twisting
 
Yeah finally had some time this afternoon and believe I got it in now. Still gotta install upper 2 bolts but others are in and it's snug. Just kept rotating around tightening each bolt a little at a time and it pulled in without issue. Thanks everyone for the help
 
Assuming an alignment tool was used when the friction disc and pressure plate were bolted to the flywheel, the last 1/2" is likely the compression of the pressure plate springs as the input shaft and pilot bearing should be lined up. Puck style clutches have stiffer springs with heavier pedal feel from what I hear (I went with Centerforce standard friction disc for drivability, offroading with a clutch switch didn't sound fun...) so it might be harder to get it stabbed in the last little bit. If you do try to pull it together with bolts use the outside two and walk it in a couple turns at a time side to side not just driving one home then the other...
Finally got er in by tightening the bolts a little at a time, pulled right in, thanks
 

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