Clutch master cylinder and line install?

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, its one of the supports for the rockslider. I'd do it a bit different if I had to do it over again, but it seems to be working fine as it is.

 

[Natedog]

Yeah it's usually that way with at least a few mods huh?

Got it in today thanks! BTW, ALWAYS be sure you have the master cylinder in the proper position BEFORE you insert the rod that goes to the clutch pedal!!!!!!!!!!! I put mine in to bleed it in the vehicle but before it was mounted to the firewall so that I could bleed it with the pressure output (to the slave cylinder) higher than the fluid inlet from the reservoir and I couldn't get it back out and didn'[t want to break it. I managed to turn it all around and get it in position through the firewall even with the rod and high pressure line installed! But it wasn't fun and almost not do-able!

 

[offroadranger]

Yeah it's usually that way with at least a few mods huh?

Got it in today thanks! BTW, ALWAYS be sure you have the master cylinder in the proper position BEFORE you insert the rod that goes to the clutch pedal!!!!!!!!!!! I put mine in to bleed it in the vehicle but before it was mounted to the firewall so that I could bleed it with the pressure output (to the slave cylinder) higher than the fluid inlet from the reservoir and I couldn't get it back out and didn'[t want to break it. I managed to turn it all around and get it in position through the firewall even with the rod and high pressure line installed! But it wasn't fun and almost not do-able!

sorry to highjack your thread dood. I thought you were done. But for everyone that helped me out here: again, my trans IS a M50D-R1, I DID remove the roll pin, not realizing that white piece on the fitting/line was a quick disconnect, so I got the bearing off the input shaft, and removed the slave, put the pin back, and all should be good as long as I can get it too bleeeeeeeeed!!!

Thank you guys!

 

[LittleHorse]

Yeah it's usually that way with at least a few mods huh?

Got it in today thanks! BTW, ALWAYS be sure you have the master cylinder in the proper position BEFORE you insert the rod that goes to the clutch pedal!!!!!!!!!!! I put mine in to bleed it in the vehicle but before it was mounted to the firewall so that I could bleed it with the pressure output (to the slave cylinder) higher than the fluid inlet from the reservoir and I couldn't get it back out and didn'[t want to break it. I managed to turn it all around and get it in position through the firewall even with the rod and high pressure line installed! But it wasn't fun and almost not do-able!

I REALLY wish I had read this beforehand...it's seeming not do-able for me. I then decided to try to take the rod out, which after 30 minutes of failed attempts I removed the snapring...and then the whole master cylinder (brand new and pre-bled) came apart, and I still can't get the rod out.

How the hell does anybody bench bleed these things and then go back and install them, without having the brake booster and inner fender out of the truck?

Seems like nothing with this project has gone my way.

 

[cocoasranger]

I got the rod to separate from the clutch master by carefully inserting two very small, thin bladed screwdrivers near the end of the rod. There is a small spring clip with two fingers which is what locks the rod into the cup in the master.

You have to wiggle and pull outward on the rod while prying on both fingers till they work themselves out of the groove on the rod.

If you can't manage this with the master bolted to the fire wall, it's possible to release the snap ring and extract the rod and cylinder cup together, then separate them at the workbench.

If you modify the groove in the end of the rod while it's out by lightly rounding the sharp edge of the groove, after it's assembled you will be able to pop the rod out by hand whenever you want; the more rounding you did, the easier it will be to pop out. I did that and it worked for me.

 

[Natedog]

I REALLY wish I had read this beforehand...it's seeming not do-able for me. I then decided to try to take the rod out, which after 30 minutes of failed attempts I removed the snapring...and then the whole master cylinder (brand new and pre-bled) came apart, and I still can't get the rod out.

How the hell does anybody bench bleed these things and then go back and install them, without having the brake booster and inner fender out of the truck?

Seems like nothing with this project has gone my way.

Don't recall exactly but I was getting desperate and didn't want to destroy my new MC.........rotated and tilted and twisted carefully until it fit.

 

[LittleHorse]

Don't recall exactly but I was getting desperate and didn't want to destroy my new MC.........rotated and tilted and twisted carefully until it fit.

I'm guessing this was on your 87? I don't suppose you were using a master from a 93+ truck were you?

I could do that with my old master cylinder, but I ended up with a 93+ slave by accident, which has a quick disconnect that doesn't quite match the pre 93 models - so I bought a new master w/ line from a 93+. The 93+ has a hard metal line for the first 18" or so, so it only adds to the difficulty in maneuvering the cylinder around to get it in that hole.

 

[Natedog]

I'm guessing this was on your 87? I don't suppose you were using a master from a 93+ truck were you?

Dont recall exact year....prolly 1990, it has an all plastic line with QD at the MC.

I could do that with my old master cylinder, but I ended up with a 93+ slave by accident, which has a quick disconnect that doesn't quite match the pre 93 models - so I bought a new master w/ line from a 93+. The 93+ has a hard metal line for the first 18" or so, so it only adds to the difficulty in maneuvering the cylinder around to get it in that hole.

Ah, metal line that sucks! Mine was all plastic line.

 

[LittleHorse]

ok well now I don't feel quite as retarded for not being able to get it in.

I want to find the guy that came up with this clutch hydraulic system design, and tie him to a tree, naked, labeled with a sign that says "I designed the Ford Ranger internal slave system", and let all my fellow RBV owners take care of the rest.

From the slave that requires transmission removal for service, to the master cylinder that's oriented in such a way that it traps air bubbles at the end opposite the line, and that is impossible to R&R after the rod is permanently attached...I just don't see how this could have been done with anything other than complete idiocy or deep rooted malice.

 

[Natedog]

ok well now I don't feel quite as retarded for not being able to get it in.

I want to find the guy that came up with this clutch hydraulic system design, and tie him to a tree, naked, labeled with a sign that says "I designed the Ford Ranger internal slave system", and let all my fellow RBV owners take care of the rest.

From the slave that requires transmission removal for service, to the master cylinder that's oriented in such a way that it traps air bubbles at the end opposite the line, and that is impossible to R&R after the rod is permanently attached...I just don't see how this could have been done with anything other than complete idiocy or deep rooted malice.

X2 and I think it was more idiocy designed than anything else. Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[coffee]

My glad is so very big that I have all of this to look forward to very shortly. Did anybody get any Valium prescriptions before this undertaking?

 

[LittleHorse]

My glad is so very big that I have all of this to look forward to very shortly. Did anybody get any Valium prescriptions before this undertaking?

no valium for me but I couldn't count for you the bottles of beer that have been consumed during this ordeal. I figure if I'm going to work on it, I should simulate the state of mind it was designed under.

 

[sfwjesse]

I also beating my head against the wall over this hydraulic system at the moment. I have been trying for days to get it bled. Being an engineer, i had the bright idea on the way home to design a tool, patent it, and get filthy rich. Unfortunately when i got home i found someone already had that idea. Check out this page.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/7013642/description.html

In particular, if your not much of a reader, check out this diagram.

If you want to see the whole document you have to make an account with patentstorm...its free.

Since I am mostly solo on this project, i think i am going to create this baby and give her a shot. I think if you disconnect the master from the fire wall, use a block of wood to hold it horizontalish, and pump away this might work....who knows?

 

[LittleHorse]

might work.

I ended up bench bleeding mine, again, to get out the air that got in when I pulled out the piston. Then I pulled the brake booster to give myself more room, and at that point getting the master cylinder in, even with rod and hard hydraulic line attached, was pretty easy.

I did run into one small issue - apparently the 93+ master is a little longer and the reservoir connects in a different place on the cylinder. This was causing the end of the master cylinder to jam against the inner fender. I just took a sawzall and cut out a hole in the fenderwell to allow the master cylinder to fit in, and I'm going to go back and cover the hole from the outside.