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Clutch is being weird


RangerNielsen

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
280
City
Issaquah, Washington
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
So I picked up a 94 ranger 3.0 v6 5 speed knowing there was issues with the clutch. I get it home and notice that the res. for the clutch was dryer than Death Valley. So I adds some brake fluid to it, and pumped the clutch a couple times and the res. started bubbling so I held the clutch down for a few seconds and the bubbling stopped. So then I tried to start it in gear, and it started and wouldn't move, but as soon as I let the clutch out a little bit, it's grabs hard. But I still could not get it into gear with it running. I had a friend come over the other day and bled out the clutch, and I noticed the play in the top end of the clutch went away by about 50%; and I could get it into gear with it running. So we went for a little drive around my neighbor hood, and I went to put it in reverse, and I could not get it in, (would grind when I tried) and couldn't get it into first unless the truck was rolling forwards. Then this morning when I went to move it, I got it into reverse with the truck running and first as well.
I asked my older brother what it could be, and he said that my clutch must not be disengaging all the way, and I need to adjust the pedal.

Any and all ideas are welcome. Ask questions if you need more info.
 
You can't adjust the pedal on these. Sounds like you've still got air in it somewhere. Bleed it again and see if it helps.


Sent from my iPhone.
 
Ok. I bled it and let about 3-4 resivoirs go thru it. I drove it around today and I only had problems a couple times for the amount of driving I did. Is it possible the slave is getting weak? I drove my 88 with out bleeding the clutch (no one would assist me by keeping the res full) and it worked fine. I put the 32s on the front and blew the line out of the coupler.
 
Google: How To Bleed A Ford Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder

Nice video on master cylinder bleeding.

Because the reservoir went dry there is a good chance the master has an air pocket at the top.
And because of the angle of the master cylinder it can stay there a long long time.
 
Basically you have a leak somewhere. It is probably the slave cylinder.

My advice, for a truck that old, is to buy a new master, slave, and line. This will also make it much easier to bleed. If you have all the parts out of the truck you can hook it all up, flip it upside down, and bleed it. Then take the slave off the line, put it all in the truck, and pump the pedal like twice, then go.
 
Ok. So pretty much sounds like I gotta rip out all the clutch lines and slave and stuff? It seems like the more I drive it, the better it gets. It had a couple hissy fits today but was otherwise pretty normal. I have noticed that I'm getting play in the bottom of my pedal too (i've noticed play in all the standards I've driven).
 

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