clutch install questions

[whitebroncoii87]

I'm changing out the clutch, while the flywheel is exposed, is it a good idea to sand the flywheel with sandpaper? Or just be real careful with it and wipe it with a rag?

Also while installing the pilot bearing, should I put some grease on the outside surface of the bearing where it makes contact with the crankshaft/flywheel hole, or leave that dry the way it is? Thank you!

 

[Haywire6000]

Better off taking it out and sending it to the machine shop.

 

[enjr44]

The pilot bearing is sealed, so can't hurt. Help, IDK, a light film around the outside may allow it to go in easier.

Flywheel, it is best to have it re-surfaced by a machine shop. Me, unless it is scored or has visible hot spots, I just use a medium grade crocus cloth and cross hatch it to break the gloss, then wipe it down with something to get the grit off.

 

[whitebroncoii87]

another question: I installed a new slave cylinder, I want to bleed it before I put the transmission back on. After I bled it the clutch pedal is still light - no resistance. Is that normal? Should the pedal be heavy after you've bled the line or does it go back to heavy only after you've started the car?

 

[hank857]

you have air in the line, check the master. If you di not R&R the master at this time expect to do so soon!

 

[gw33gp]

If the transmission is not installed the slave will not be up against the clutch and you will have no resistance at the pedal. Resistance comes from disengaging the clutch when the pedal is pushed with the transmission installed..

 

[pjtoledo]

replaced my clutch at 180,000 miles. flywheel wasn't scored or gouged so I hit it with some sand paper to break the glaze.
been 100,000 now and all is OK.
I did replace the pilot bearing, but don't remember if I greased the outside of it or not.
it was a press fit, go easy with the BFH.
check the pilot shaft on the tranny, polish if needed.

05 2.3 RWD.

 

[whitebroncoii87]

If the transmission is not installed the slave will not be up against the clutch and you will have no resistance at the pedal. Resistance comes from disengaging the clutch when the pedal is pushed with the transmission installed..

ok, that makes sense. So knowing that now it makes no sense to bleed the slave before installing the trans. But I did try to bleed it and at one point probably having pushed the clutch too many times or too long, fluid started leaking out of the slave body, it turned out the piston (just a rubber seal) got pushed out too far past the cylinder.. I pushed the rubber seal piston back inside the cylinder and hooked it up to the hydraulic hose again and bled everything out and it seems to not be leaking.. Can I trust it like that? That is to say, once the seal in the slave is broken (leaks) can it be salvaged or is it doomed? Thanks!

 

[Andy D]

The job is enough of a PITA so that most people replace everything in the bell housing. I definitely wouldn't trust that slave cyl.

 

[whitebroncoii87]

totally with you on the PITA sentiment. I'm putting in a new slave, a duralast from autozone.. I have an 87 it's the slave with a cotter pin located on the top side of the bell housing where it's impossible to see what you are doing and pretty much have to work the pin and hydraulic hose blindfolded. Is it possible to switch to a none 87 slave where it's not cotter pin but a snap on for the hydraulic hose? Do all ranger/broncos have concentric slave or did they move it outside at later years? I really hate concentric slaves and cotter pins at that blindside location.