Changing the belt tensioner issues

[Bgunner]

When I bought the truck the belt squeaked due to the tensioner not working properly so I lubed it and worked it and it lasted about a year more. Since the major repairs are done I can afford to change the tensioner now so I picked up a ULTRA-POWER 419201 tensioner but there is a difference between the ford OE and this tensioner. The lock tab that holds the back of the tensioner to the block/a/c bracket is 2 times if not 3 times the length of the original so the tensioner will not mount properly.

My question is: Is it ok to grind down this tab so it sits flush?

Without an inspection mirror I can not tell if there is crud in the hole or not so I'm hoping someone ran across this before and knows the best way to deal with it because my instinct is to shorten the tab.

 

[Bgunner]

Update and question:

My current belt tentioner has this style lock tab for the spring, basically a hump: https://www.rockauto.com/info/147/49460_VIEW 1__ra_p.jpg

Now all of the ones on Rock Auto shows a round pin like this one: https://www.rockauto.com/info/147/49220_VIEW 2__ra_p.jpg

The issue is I already purchased one that can not be modified to work properly, so that just sucks. There is nothing special about my ranger since all belt driven accessorys are OEM so I'm at a loss on why I cant order the proper one.

The hole to hold the tentioner is designed for the one in the fist pic I gave so where do I go from here?

 

[Uncle Gump]

From the pictures... it looks as if you got the wrong tensioner. The cog is indexed wrong and also looks like the offset on the pulley is off. Perhaps it was boxed wrong?

I would take the tensioner that actually fits and head to the local parts stores and match a new one up. That's the problem with buying parts online... I like to walk out of the parts store knowing the part will fit.

 

[Ranger850]

That sux. RockAuto is usually pretty good at getting the right part to customers.

 

[Bgunner]

I stopped at my local Advanced Auto and all they could get for it is the round Pin style also. I plan on later today swinging by my local O'Reilly's and see what they can get. I can't tell you how many of these things I have replaced through the years and never had an issue like this.

Did they use different brackets or something that require the Round Pin style on these motors?

 

[Bgunner]

From the pictures... it looks as if you got the wrong tensioner. The cog is indexed wrong and also looks like the offset on the pulley is off. Perhaps it was boxed wrong?

The first pic I used a tentioner from the 2.5 motor to show the hump (cog as you call it) that mine has but that tensioner is not for my motor. I just wanted to show the cog that I need but the other is what I am finding everywhere else for my motor and I do not believe it will work.

 

[Bgunner]

Sorry I haven't updated this issue in a while but with a bad back and hip Cold weather stops me from working on my vehicles.

I ordered a motorcraft Belt Tensioner and got the proper one and here is a pic of the original, the new motorcraft and the off brand. As you can see the motorcraft one has a peak, similar to a mountain and the off brand has a thin lock/clocking tab that looks nothing alike. This was the issue I was having. Well it is fixed now by getting an original new old stock for a replacement.

20190407_161301[1].jpg

drive.google.com

 

[Dirtman]

Glad you solved the issue. The problem with alot of aftermarket parts is they try to make one part fit as many models as possible. To do this they make compromises and this often ends up with the part fitting no models well or without needing modifications. That tensioner probably fit 50 other models and your truck was one where the manufacturer said "screw it, close enough..."