Can anyone tell me what this part is off my truck?

[litleblue]

Also another way to test all five solenoid valves at once is to wait until the KOEO test enters the output state test. After the last code is reported the second time in KOEO test, stay in the test and wait for around 10 to 20 seconds. Then depress the throttle slightly and release. When the throttle is released all of the output will apply power to the solenoids, (the two for the EGR (vent and fill) two for the thermactor system(TAD and TAB) and the TCP solenoid). At that time take a Volt meter and read the voltages on the electrical side of the solenoid valves. All should have 12v at the coils.

Then depress the throttle slightly and all of the outputs will turn off. (every time you depress the throttle, all of the outputs will change state all on or all off) If any of the solenoids doesn't cycle properly and the others do check the wiring first. If the wiring is intact then the output for that device is bad in the EEC module. You will need to have the EEC repaired. I wouldn't recommend going to the parts store and changing out the EEC module for a remanufactured unit since you most likely won't get the right calibration curve for the engine.

Also don't really worry about code 31. It means the EGR valve doesn't appear to be seating properly. If the engine isn't missing and idling correctly and the EGR works during the KOER test then don't waste more time. (Fix everything else)

There are literally dozens of EGR position sensors for early 80's to mid 90's EGR valves to chose from and most of them look the same.

 

[enginepaul]

A rebuilt EEC probably isn't a rebuild; they just clean them on the outside and then stick on a label that matches what you require. That is from experience; a call to the company that 'rebuilt' my last one (that didn't work) got picked up by a gal working in the office there and she told me that!

Ford put out a bulletin about that EGR code. Basically it said to test the EGR and if the code is still present, jut ignore it.

You can test individual solenoids by grounding them one at a time (Make sure you are not grounding the power feed) For instance, if one side of the connector is red, you ground the other wire with a jumper. In normal operation, they all get 12V fed to them at all times and they operate when the computer grounds them.

 

[DaddysTruck]

I went ahead and bought the new solenoid set. I think after I get these parts on there, and once I can get the carb adusted I will have the codes under control. I wish I was just slapping everything back on and taking it for a spin, but the next time I see the truck I'm going to be taking off the wiring harness and vacuum lines to go over them and fix any issues. I'm tired of wondering whats going on with the truck because I dont know its history, I'm just going to keep tearing into this thing untill I know everything is in good working order. Also going to be doing a lot of cleaning, because there looks to be more oil under the hood then actually in the motor. Probably going to start a restoration thread soon.