Can anyone tell me what this part is off my truck?

[RonD]

LMC truck is a good source for older truck parts, including Rangers.

Not engine and trans stuff but pretty much everything else: http://www.lmctruck.com/ford/

Body rust can be overcome with new panels or sections, frame rust is hard to get around when restoring, start there, close inspection, if it is bad then judgement call on whether it is restorable or a write off

 

[enginepaul]

As for the "Temperature compensated accelerator pump solenoid " That can be a pain; when I looked there were no new ones and the ones I got from junk yards were all bad. So I tried soaking it in CLR (pump in through the hose holes) shaking the heck out of it, then being generous with WD40 and mine came back to life. I figured this out by breaking apart a bad one and all that was wrong was gunk locking the the valve closed.

 

[enginepaul]

Code 87 is "Temperature Compensated Fuel Pump" which is the TCP solenoid ( first one, next to the starter solenoid; fender mounted with other solenoids) it will have two red wires going to one side and a orange/white wire to the other terminal. Resistance at the solenoid terminals should be between 50 and 100 ohms. The red wire should deliver at least 10.5 volts. ALSO check the vacuum lines as they tend to crack and will generate some codes.


Code 31 is EGR Valve Position. Not that hard to test, but too much to write here. If you can't test it, PM me and I might be able to help.

One of the things that can put out the 35 code is too low RPM; so start with the lowest code and other may go away. (Your codes 12 and 23)

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I found this dangling on the drivers side of the engine compartment. There was nothing near by that looked like it would mount up to. Has no parts numbers on it. Any idea what it is and where to stick it?

http://imgur.com/AdfpJM7

http://imgur.com/kNc5HyN

Look on the side of the block in front of the starter there still may be a adaptor screwed into the block for the knock senser it should plug into the harness up close to the ignition coil. The code 31 could be a tough nut to crack. I tried for two years and never solved the issue. My truck turned 25yrs old and no longer needed to pass smog so I durasparked it. If that is the stock motor it almost for sure needs new valve guide seals, do not replace the cat until you replace the seals as oil will quickly destroy the cat. I went as far as pull the intake manifold to solve the egr code and the ports from the heads were completely plugged with carbon I had to chip out of the heads and intake manifold for the EGR valve. To see if the egr is working just add engine vacuum to the egr at idle speed the engine should stall. If you messed with the idle air jets you can try adjusting them it takes three steps. Preset the idle air needles out 3 1/2 turns from lightly seated and bring the engine up to normal temp, disconnect the spout wire and check it is 10 degrees BTDC. Connect the spout and then disconnect the idle control motor and adjust the idle air needles for the highest possible rpm or vacuum pressure. Just turn the needles slowly you will find the point wher the engine speed/vacuum only begins to drop as you turn the needles in. Then erase computer memory and disconnect the battery to reset the computer at least 1/2 an hour.. Do not run the motor with any sensors disconnected or you will need to start over again. Then yes start with the lowest number first make the repair and then erase the memory and reset the computer and confirm the repair. There are two EGR solenoids the one closest to the firewall is the bleed solenoid and is used to vent the egr valve to atmospheric pressure to allow it to close. It is supposed to go to the larg4 45 degree fitting under the air horn on the carb that way it pulls filtered air into the vacuum line to close the egr.

 

[DaddysTruck]

I went to work on the Ranger today and I don't know if it was because it was freezing out, but for the first time I wasn't able to get it to even start, so I wasn't able to get the idle straitened out. I pulled off the EGR valve and found that someone had put in a metal plate to block it off, that might explain a few things. I also took off the TCP valve and will see if cleaning it brings it back to life.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The idle speed is controlled by the computer that is why you disconnect the idle speed control motor to adjust the idle air jets. The temp controlled solenoid is the pot on the front of the carb after the engine warms up, it turns off the accelerator pump to conserve fuel. Make sure all the sensers are plugged in before you start the motor including the IAT on the air filter housing. If not the computer goes into limp mode and there is no timing advance it just stays at base timing as a default. To erase the memory do the KOEO test and when it starts sending you codes end the test but keep the ignition on. Then turn the key off and disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour to set new values. Start it and run it about 20 minutes at medium speeds and then run the codes again and see what pops up. You need to erase the memory and reset the computer any time you change or clean a senser to confirm the repair!

 

[DaddysTruck]

I reset it and made sure everything was plugged in, I tweaked the idle jets, but it wouldn't start up. I probably could have got it going, the battery died quick so I just decided to work on other areas. I went ahead and ran a KOEO test even though the motor was an ice cube and got these codes:

21 - ECT out of range
23 - TPS out of range
24 - IAT out of range
31 - EVP out of range
87 - TCP solenoid

Most of those are probably because the engine was cold. It at least tells me the solenoid is failing to cycle for the test though. I'm going to clean it out and see if that helps. I need to test everything with the EGR valve to see if it will work now with the block off plate that I found removed.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

With the engine off turn the idle air jets in clockwise to lightly seated and then count the turns out 3 1/2 turns and see if it starts? These little motors like the idle circuit nice and rich and the computer controls the air bleed to the jets. If it runs good at 3 1/2 turns you can just leave it there until you get the codes reading 11-1-11

 

[supertrucker67]

i think its a knock sensor goes on drivers side of the enine block better put it back in ,i found mine unplugged ,so get on a creeper and screw it back in ,up by the exhaust manifold,

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Be careful with the knock senser it is real brittle. They are also torque sensitive wrap the threads with teflon tape and screw it in until hand tight and add 1/2 turn. I just looked at the vacuum diagram for the 85 2.8. You have two solenoids for the EGR, the one wit only one vacuum line is the air bleed solenoid on the side of it is a filter that gets plugged and can hold the egr open. If your fingers are not too big what I do is stick my finger in hole under the vacuum pod on the egr valve while the engine is running, you should feel the disphram move up and down as you work the throttle on the carb.

 

[DaddysTruck]

I cleaned the egr valve and verified it holds vacuum. It's in good shape, I think the codes were only related to the egr block off plate I found. Thanks for telling me about the solenoid filters, I might not have noticed them. The foam filters in all of them were almost completely eroded away and turned to dust when I touched them. I made some new ones out of material from an old 3M breather filter.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you get everything working good? You can test the egr by applying manifold vacuum to the egr at idle speed. The engine should stall if the egr is working properly?

 

[AndyB.]

It might not be a bad idea to pick up this valve. I doubt it will be any cheaper or easier to find five years from now:

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/301392991543

 

[DaddysTruck]

The truck is parked 60 miles away from where I live at, so I only get to work on it so often. I took the egr off and brought it home with me. It looks good and holds vacuum, so I think it will work fine. The biggest thing was getting that block off plate out from under it. I really want to go ahead and buy that valve set but the part number on mine is different. The part number on mine is E57E-9D474-EA.

 

[AndyB.]

The part on yours in the engineering drawing number, the service part number will be different. E57E-9D474-EA crosses to E5TZ-9D474-E.

Just a quick explanation on older ford part numbers.

E = 1980
5 = 5, so 1985
T = light truck
Z = service part

9D474 = base part number.

E = revision.

Also, E5TZ-9D474-E will have a drawing number of E67E-9D474-B1A; apparently there was some revision to this part in 1986.

A worthwhile effort on these engines is to disconnect the vacuum lines at each solenoid on the fender and use a vacuum pump to activate each system (engine off).

If the block off plate was pushing the valve pintle back in, this could generate an error on the eve. To test the evp sensor yiu check resistance between 2 of the 3 pins while activating the valve with an external vacuum source.