Can anyone tell me what this part is off my truck?

[DaddysTruck]

I found this dangling on the drivers side of the engine compartment. There was nothing near by that looked like it would mount up to. Has no parts numbers on it. Any idea what it is and where to stick it?

http://imgur.com/AdfpJM7

http://imgur.com/kNc5HyN

 

[RonD]

If it was for oil or coolant, pressure or temp or level, then you would have a leak with that unscrewed.
Not sure '85 would have an oil level sensor for the oil pan, but could have and someone changed to an oil pan that didn't have the bung to screw it in.

2.8l did have a knock sensor, lower drivers side rear of block, it wouldn't leak anything if removed.
Many removed them so the spark advance wouldn't change.

In either case they left the sensor plugged in so the CEL(check engine light) wouldn't come on

 

[enginepaul]

Knock sensor. Only needed with original TFI system. (If you did a DuraSpark conversion, it isn't used)

 

[DaddysTruck]

Thank you. That explains the code 25 for "no knock sensed during dynamic test", only 10 more codes to figure out lol...

 

[RonD]

Codes are often not what they mean, in this case yes, but for example a "Lean" or "Rich" code doesn't mean engine is running Lean or Rich, it means computer calculations are not matching other parameters

 

[DaddysTruck]

Well while we're talking about it, here's the list of codes I'm getting..

12 - rpm at idle out of range/high
23 - throttle position sensor signal out of range
25 - knock not sensed during dynamic response test
31 - book says it could mean either EGR valve control sensor fault, or evap control system below minimum voltage
35 - no ?EGE? position signal, rpm low
41 - lean condition
63 - throttle position circuit fault, below minimum voltage
87 - primary fuel pump circuit failure

I just read the codes recently to see what's going on because I've not been able to get it to pass emissions. All of the NO/CO2/HC levels were really high, so I rebuilt the carb and replaced the non-existent cat, and that got everything passing except HC. It went from over 2000 to 900 ppm though. The weirdest thing is, after all of that, I went and replaced the brake booster, thinking that might help fix the unburned gas issue because it had a vaccum leak at the brake pedal, and after that was done I cant get a vaccum gauge to read in the green for anything no matter how much I adjust the idle screws and it dies at idle after being driven for a short while. Not sure what went wrong because it was running nicely after I rebuilt the carb. I was hoping the codes might lead me in the right direction. I replaced the old O2 sensor, but it still gives a lean code. Any ideas would be great. This is my late father's old truck that I've been sitting on for two years and it would be nice to get it tagged so I can drive it.

 

[enginepaul]

There are instruction on this site for setting the idle RPM.
The TPS is a common problem - you might be able to adjust it, but be ready to replace it.
I'll look to see if I can find the EGR code that you ignore after a couple of checks.

Circuit problems are sometimes in the connectors; check them CAREFULLY. I once spent time and money when it turned out to be a bad connector!

(Always start with the lowes number code first - that sometimes clears the others.)

 

[DaddysTruck]

There are many places where wires have cracked and are bare under the hood. The entire harness could use a going through. Any idea what the EGE sensor is? I can't find info about it anywhere. Also why would I have a fuel pump circuit issue when the truck uses a mechanical pump?

 

[RonD]

Code 31 and 35 are for the EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) Valve.
It should have a Position sensor(EVP) to tell computer if it is open and how far.

Good Ranger Code list here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2digitcodes.shtml

 

[DaddysTruck]

Okay that list has some better info than my code reader manual. So it sounds like I need to adjust my idle, check the egr, put the knock sensor back in the hole, and something about a temperature controlled accelerator pump solenoid. I'm assuming that is the same as the idle control solenoid? So maybe correcting idle will fix all.

 

[RonD]

2.8l were all carbureted if memory serves.

Here is the Motorcraft 2150 carb details, see pictures and labels: http://grantorinosport.org/BubbaF250/carb/carb02.html

Also here for throttle position details: http://grantorinosport.org/BubbaF250/carb/carb02a.html


Here is the 2.8l run down: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8L_Performance.shtml

 

[AndyB.]

Temperature compensated accelerator pump solenoid is on the passenger side inner fender. It's the vacuum solenoid nearest the firewall and would have originally had a light blue line connected to it.

It will look like this:

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/161209329084

 

[DaddysTruck]

Parts for this truck are so expensive. A few more 69.99 parts and I might as well buy a wrecked 4.0 truck and swap.

 

[AndyB.]

Replacing each part indicated with a diagnostic trouble code likely isn't the best approach. I think your money would be better spent buying this manual, working through the flow charts, and testing individual components prior to replacing:

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/331732286658

 

[DaddysTruck]

I know better than to throw parts at it. It's a very neglected 30 year old truck, and I've just had to replace a lot already. When I got the truck it had sticks holding together parts of the carb if that tells you anything about it's condition. I haven't even looked into the extent of the rust on it, but it's pretty bad. If it wasn't my dads truck I would have dumped it on Craigslist already. I intend to fully restore it, it's going to be a long time project.