Can anyone give me a ray of hope for my 93 Ranger Clutch problems

[Never_Evil]

Vital info: 1993 Ranger STX extended cab, 4.0L 5sp 4x4 and 110XXX miles.

Started with us loosing the clutch pedal just to find out the clutch slave is ground to bits and leaked the fluid out of the system. After a week of trying to take stuff apart in the very little spare time I had, got a new slave from Auto Zone put it in bolted everything up and it was bad. Unbolted everything, took the "new" slave out, replaced it, then wrestled the transmission back into place. I've done the bleeding procedures to the T, and I can only get at best 1/4" of pedal travel. It has a solid stream when bleeding, but not building pressure too well. Can anyone offer any short cuts that can get this POS Ford back together before I torch it?

PS. Im all "searched" out, and just need some better directions of people that have done this.

Thanks

 

[Redneck1912]

You most likely still have air traped somewhere.

Did you bench bleed both master and slave?

When you take out the slave the line has the chance to leak and allow air in the master you have to undo the line and bleed the master first because it is angled down air can get traped in the top I had to take it out of the truck and bleed it with the push rod down.

 

[schlutzer]

okay just a few tips...your clutch reservoir you did remember to take out the rubber diaphragm right? sounds dumb but i forgot about it and it took my 3 days to figure out why it wasn't bleeding.

while bleeding the ranger clutch i totally cheat. fill the reservoir and just keep pushing that pedal while somebody watches the reservoir. if bubbles come up you have air in the master... continue to do so untill there is no more air in the master( no bubbles).

then once youve had about 10 pumps with no bubbles bleed as you have been with the bleed screw...one or two shots and you should be good to go! only takes 5 minutes. I'm becoming as master at it. I've managed to rip my clutch line off 4 times now thanks to random rocks in the mud pits.

 

[piotrsko]

if you have quick disconnects, it might be worth a trip to the local brake and clutch place to get new lines fabricated without them. I did, cost me about $50 and it bled the first time right on the bench.

BTW and just a thought: you did replace or re install the throw out bearing?

 

[fastpakr]

Frequently, the problem with bleeding a RBV clutch occurs in the master cylinder. There is a spot near the bottom that traps air, and when that happens it will never come out during normal bleeding procedures. Fortunately, the fix isn't terribly difficult. Unbolt the master from the firewall (no need to disconnect the hydraulics) and invert it so any trapped air can enter the line to the slave. Bleed it until that air pocket pushes through, and you're good to go. My favorite bleeding method involves a section of clear line long enough to go from the slave bleed valve to the master reservoir. If you immerse the end in the reservoir, you can just open the bleeder and continue to cycle the piston until you're done without using a second person. Makes it a very easy and quick job.

 

[Never_Evil]

piotrsko: The Clutch slave and throw out bearing come as one unit from the Auto parts store. When I unbolt the master, will I have to pump it by hand and bleed it through the slave, or will it bubble to the reservoir?

The diaphram is out. I did not bench bleed it, I was told by my father in law not to. Damn I hate listening to people with bad info.

Here's another stupid question, Why doesnt any parts store carry the clutch hose? If this is a common problem, they should have them. I will do a small write up on how to get the old slave off from the hose without damaging the clutch hose and without using that crappy plastic collar that doesnt work.

 

[BlackBII]

They don't carry the clutch line because it rarely needs replacing.

Yes, you unbolt the master and tip it up, and then push it by hand to bleed it.(It's a pain, but can be done) When you tilt it, you want to get the line end higher than the pushrod end, this will allow any stuck bubbles to go into the line, through the slave, and out the nipple. Just make sure the reservoir stays connected.

 

[sfwjesse]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45660

Look at post 12 here. That is how i did it. Found out later my master was bad, new master fixed the problem but i still had to bleed it this way.

 

[Blueranger99]

when you buy a clutch kit at advance the hoses come with it. they also want over 300 bucks for the kit. which is why i wont buy it. im gonna buy a clutch set without the lines for 200 at the local transmission shop. ill bet you could buy the lines there too.

 

[fastpakr]

It is extremely unlikely that you will need lines. This comes up rather often. Pull/flip/bleed the master, then move on from there if you're still having trouble.

 

[Never_Evil]

The only reason I bring up the hose is because this truck is a Wisconsin truck. Where it comes out of the master is a steel line and its is rusty and crusty before it goes to the compression fit rubber hose.

As soon as I get a few more posts and can show some pics, I will show the chewed up slave, how to get the slave off the hose (if you are throwing the slave away, and a few other good pics from underneath.

 

[Never_Evil]

I tried to unbolt the master, but realized I needed to take the brake booster off the wall to get to the other master bolt. After all that, I unhooked the pedal to try and tilt it up...no luck. Slapped all that crap together and pumped it as a closed system like a raped ape by hand and the pedal seems to have come back. I wont know fully until I get it on the road. I am beginning to like this truck less and less. I had to do the same thing in my full size F150 and it took me about 6 hours to drop everything change out the parts and put everything back in, this project is now on its 3rd week and seriously irritating me.

The next project on this junkyard bound jewel is to replace the rotted spring hanger and leaf packs in the rear, and figure out why the 4x4 isnt working on the front. I know its the auto hubs, but dont want to buy manuals.

Are the 98+ Rangers better than the turd I have?

 

[sfwjesse]

You didnt have to take the brake booster off........you get that bolt out by feel.

 

[Never_Evil]

You didnt have to take the brake booster off........you get that bolt out by feel.

I suppose now would be a good time to say that the front end is up in the air, and I am a 330# guy with a big gut. There was no way for me to get under that booster "by feel." I was luck as hell getting the tranny bolts at the top back in. 18"s of extentions and a Ujoint really made getting those in easy.


Any poop, I think I got it to a drivable level, just need to get a few exhaust pieces to make it quiet again and weld her all up and the wife can have the truck back.

 

[trail B2]

Bleeding

One of those syringes used for cooking hooked to A vacuum line slipped over the bleed screw after you have fluid dripping out the bottom its bled before you could get the master out to tilt it