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Can’t bleed after disk swap


I am not certain where I got it but that valve has been dismissed as unnecessary
 
You could rebuild it and keep it as a spare for a while. Then sell it later if it seems to be taking up too much space or is not needed.

That’s what I’ll probably do, I’m surprised there wasn’t a core charge actually.
 
I am not certain where I got it but that valve has been dismissed as unnecessary

What’s interesting is that my ABS light is not on, it’s definitely not working but that’s because it has no pressure to the rears to deal with.
 
My check engine light stayed on so long, I can;t remember when it finally burned out :/
 
My check engine light stayed on so long, I can;t remember when it finally burned out :/

Nope the bulbs good! It flashes on when I cycle the key but goes right back out. All the bulbs are good actually and none of the warning lights stay on which really makes me happy for such an old truck.
 
I've had issues with RABS valves in the past too and I just eliminate them. Good, bad or otherwise you just need a union fitting to do it... easy. Remove the ABS light bulb from the cluster if it comes on (usually it doesn't.) Obviously you will have no ABS then... but my experience has led me to believe that early ABS on our trucks is just about useless anyway.
 
ABS light comes on if there are electrical issues with the ABS system, not mechanical issues
So dirty/stuck valve or blocked passage wouldn't cause ABS light to come on
 
I've had issues with RABS valves in the past too and I just eliminate them. Good, bad or otherwise you just need a union fitting to do it... easy. Remove the ABS light bulb from the cluster if it comes on (usually it doesn't.) Obviously you will have no ABS then... but my experience has led me to believe that early ABS on our trucks is just about useless anyway.

If this reman gives me trouble it might get deleted, but I’d sure like to keep it for daily driving in the rain.
 
I think Shran is absolutely right about routing around the thing, wish I had the stuff to do it with. I think my flaring tools disappeared decades ago
 
Replaced the rabs modulator and still don’t have sufficient pressure to the rear to activate the brakes.

Maybe I need a new master?
 
Replaced the rabs modulator and still don’t have sufficient pressure to the rear to activate the brakes.

Maybe I need a new master?
I thought you said you had good flow out of the master in post #3?
 
I thought you said you had good flow out of the master in post #3?

I cracked the line and had someone pump the brakes, it made a squirting noise and some ended up in the rag I was holding around it. Not exactly the best test.

Today when I removed the rear brake line from the master, not much came out with gravity. I’m gonna buy a master and master bleeder kit because idk where mine went. A master is cheap at least.
 
What about raising the rear and let the wheels spin, does it work then? On both sides equally?
 
I think I may have fixed the calipers just by pulling the pistons out and reinstalling them.

However I’m super annoyed at the parking brakes, I’m trying to use my stock drum brake cables and hardware like a thread in the tech section says and there’s just no way it will work. First off the driver side is too short and bends at a horrible angle around the caliper and just barely fits into the slot in the bracket on the leaf spring bolt.

Second the passenger side is too short unless I also run it at the most direct route which is touching the gas tank and going to make contact with the leaf springs.

So WTF! I’m really annoyed at not having a parking brake but I have no idea how to make these work. The pictures in all the tech page write ups suck.

IMG_0136.jpegIMG_0135.jpegIMG_0134.jpeg
 

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