Camshaft syncroniser to crankshaft rotation please help

[94mazdab4000]

Can anyone tell me how many times the camshaft syncroniser rotates for every revolution of crankshaft harmonic balancer? If I'm not mistaken is it 2 times? This would be on a 4.0 V6 OHV (NON-SOHC) I feel stupid. I rebuilt this 97 ranger engine and the timing chain was set at 6 and 12 respectively. But when I put the harmonic balancer on I didn't rotate it. So when I'm at TDC I'm 180 out but there is a mark on the harmonic balancer that is 180 out like someone had done this before.

So when I stab the camshaft syncroniser in should I just put it at 180 out so I don't have to rip the timing cover back off or have to pull the harmonic balancer? Any help would be greatly appreciated and much obliged,. I've been fighting this thing for awhile and just wanna get it finished. Thank you in advance for any help.

 

[RonD]

Yes, the crank rotates 2 times for each 1 rotation of the cam(or cam synchro)

So if crank's timing mark is at 0deg you have a 50/50 chance of installing cam sensor correctly timed


If you want to take the 50/50 guess work out, pull #1 spark plug and rotate the crank clockwise manually until pressure starts to build up in #1, that's the compression stroke, at the next TDC 0deg mark you are on correct TDC to setup cam sensor

 

[94mazdab4000]

Just wanted to say Ron that you are a good person helping so many people out on here. i'm still having trouble with my Mazda B4000 (it's a 94 with a 97 4.0 OHV non SOHC)

So I rebuilt a 97 4.0, took it down to the block and changed everything except for the pistons, rings, crankshaft and journal bearings. Had the timing chain at it's marks (6 and 12 Respectively)

So my problem is this. I just was trying to time it. still using the 94 B4000 Computer (Have heard that other people have gotten engine working in older models. Some say they had to wire straight from the Camshaft syncro sensor to the PCM) I know with the newer sensor the wires are flipped due to the connector coming out the back and not pointing up like the 94-95 4.0

I just turned the crank to compression stroke and got it lined up on the 0 mark and put the camshaft syncro in with the alignment tool. Truck will idle correctly but it is acting super slugish with no power.

was wondering if you might have any ideas or questions that I could answer to get this thing going. its super frustrating and ive been without a ride for about a few months now.

Any help is much obliged good Sir.

Regards,
Matthew

 

[94mazdab4000]

Another question I had was. After you install timing chain and guides on the 4.0, before you put the harmonic balancer back on, you're not supposed to the the engine at all are you?

 

[RonD]

Unplug the Cam sensor, and computer will only use the crank sensor, CEL will come on and you will get a Cam sensor code
See if you get power back and a smoother idle

The Cam sensor is used to fine tune sequential fuel injection and some spark timing, but the computer ran the 4.0l 1990-1994 just fine in 49 other states without the cam sensor

This test will do 2 things,
First, you will see if the Cam sensor is causing an issue
Second, if it was then computer should have already set a Cam sensor code if it was mistimed, so why didn't it set that code?

Delay in acceleration or stumbling is usually a dirty MAF sensor or TPS is unplugged, but should get a code for the TPS

Once crank and cam gear are hooked up with the timing chain you can rotate the engine all you want to, in either direction

The crank pulley is keyed(woodruff key) so it's tone wheel(crank sensor uses this) will always have correct timing for crank rotation

Have you looked at(inside) the 1994 computer?
I just had to change the 3 blue capacitors inside my 1994 4.0l computer because of running issues, $5 fix

 

[94mazdab4000]

Unplugged but didn't really make a difference. it idles perfect doesn't always start the first time. but after 2-3 goes it starts. it still feels gutless, like it has no power. checked computers I have three of them and they all looks brand new. I know its gotta be something with my timing. but I know I put the timing chain on correctly. so im really stumped about this. Ive replaced the o2 sensors, I guess I really just need to hook a code reader up and see what codes its spitting out. attached are a few pictures. The one with the tanish paint mark on the crank shaft is where I start getting compression out the number one plug and the other pic is where it's zeroed on the crank in relation to the spot. Just wondering your thoughts if that looks correct?

 

[MikeG]

Checked the fuel system pressure? If it doesn't fire up right away, may not be keeping pressure in the fuel system when off.

 

[adsm08]

Unplugged but didn't really make a difference. it idles perfect doesn't always start the first time. but after 2-3 goes it starts.

This would be normal with the cam sensor faulted. In addition to fine tuning the injector timing, on sequential systems the cam sensor is needed to pick the compression stroke. That isn't important on a batch-fire system. It won't go to a batch strategy until it is sure the cam sensor signal isn't coming, and so until then it is just guessing at which injector to fire. This results is a no-start or a stall very shortly after starting in about 50% of starting events.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^

Yes, should have 30-35psi fuel pressure when engine is running and it should hold/keep 15-20psi with engine off

Looks like there are Black capacitors in computer so may have already been changed, move each one with finger to make sure its still connected, they corroded on the under side
Otherwise the circuit board looks clean

 

[94mazdab4000]

ok, I just changed the fuel pump, I had a massive amount of water in my tank, before it would start for a second and die, so i pumped all the bad gas out and put fresh gas in, it started after that but I have not changed the fuel filter yet, i have no idea if water would damage that but I have another, so I was going to put that in today. I noticed that the 97 ranger has smaller injectors and since im still using the 94 computer maybe I should put the bigger injectors back in. ill report back what I find. thank you all for your help so far, this is the last little thing to finish on the truck so I can have my freedom back. it's much obliged y'all

 

[RonD]

Both years used 35psi fuel pressure, so should be the same size

Fuel filter will be full of water as well

 

[94mazdab4000]

Ok thank you for that info. The 97 came with smaller injectors on it so I'll probably put the bigger ones back in. Is there a way with a volt meter to see if injectors are still good?

 

[RonD]

Test with OHM meter, should see 11-18ohms

 

[adsm08]

Ok thank you for that info. The 97 came with smaller injectors on it so I'll probably put the bigger ones back in. Is there a way with a volt meter to see if injectors are still good?

Test with OHM meter, should see 11-18ohms

But it won't tell you if they are OK physically, just electrically. They can be stuck or damaged but ohm out OK.

 

[94mazdab4000]

Can I hook up a 9v battery to them to check integrity?