bullet proof baja rbv

[mikeE72]

hi, i am 15 years old and in three to four years i will be runing the baja 1000. as of now i have a 88 rnager with a 2.9 that in a few weeks will be swapped for a four liter. i have taken this truck out plenty of times and ran it on our trainin grounds (my friend owns 1800 acres) i love the way this truck handles even in its stock form and it takes the abuse like a champ. now its coming close to time to start building the race truck and i need some suggestions on what i should build. i am running class 7 sx which basically means i cant use any thing bigger than 4 liters, 2 or 4 wdr, and the truck can be modded but not milion dollar suspensions and stuff like that. i believe i can supercharge or turbo charge the motor but it has to be the same manufacturer as the truck.also i am on a slightly higher than average highschoolers budget but the most important thing is that this truck be absolutely bullet proof and last 1300 miles through the bajas terrain. and i need sugestions on every thin from fenders to axles to lifts to tires so dont be shy.
ps this is important enough to me that i would take a loan out just to have a bullet proof truck

thanks

 

[koda6966]

How do you know your gonna be in the baja?

 

[mikeE72]

i am planning on racing it

 

[Mutant Pony]

You definatly need to spend money on suspension. I built my own suspension on my unprofessional offroad truck, and it is a HUGE improvement. The ttb works really good in Baja type racing, it can be modified to work as good as any. Extended radius arms and a good suspension lift, don't scrimp there. A big improvement on what I already have would be long travel coil/overs like King's. I can't afford them, they are on my wish list!

 

[c_note]

as for parts... where do you live?

btw, have you checked out dezertrangers yet? they will have much better forums for this topic. just if you ask the wrong question, beware. they have no class and all act like 16 year old socal bros.

 

[mikeE72]

You definatly need to spend money on suspension. I built my own suspension on my unprofessional offroad truck, and it is a HUGE improvement. The ttb works really good in Baja type racing, it can be modified to work as good as any. Extended radius arms and a good suspension lift, don't scrimp there. A big improvement on what I already have would be long travel coil/overs like King's. I can't afford them, they are on my wish list!

thats where im planning on spending most of my money but i just cant have factory one off suspension like the milion dollar trucks if i di i would race class 7 suprmod i think

 

[mikeE72]

as for parts... where do you live?

btw, have you checked out dezertrangers yet? they will have much better forums for this topic. just if you ask the wrong question, beware. they have no class and all act like 16 year old socal bros.

i live on the w coast of FL i know im in the wrong place for all the sports ilove like snowboarding desert reacin surfing ect...
thanks for the desertrangers thing ill check them out

 

[thoughtcriminal]

I'm planning on doing similar, with a only slightly higher budget. (college kid). I plan to built eventually by NORRA Unlimited class rules.
what you are gonna want to do is decide what you want for front suspension, ttb or ifs. each has its advantages and disadvantages. you will probably be going solid rear axle, as most trophy trucks (besides the absolute top end ones) run them.

coilovers are the absolute best thing running, but very pricey. I plan to run them only in the front and use long leaf springs in the back.
Personally, I am using the axles from a one ton ford underneath it.
Now, there are few axles that can handle ORR in stock form. You are going to want to reinforce your axle housing and powertrain. Reinforcing the housing is called trussing. look into it. On the inside, everything that spins is going to want to be beefed up. heavier shafts, stronger r+p, etc. (unless you are using very heavy axles to begin with.)

wide stance is very helpful. if you are going ifs, get longer, stronger A arms. If you chose to keep ttb, I would suggest swapping in a d44/d50 ttb as a good start. then beef it up from there

Keep in mind two things. 1. its never strong enough 2. lost weight is gained horsepower.
find the right balance between those two and and you will be ok

 

[dusto2]

got to keep in mind class 7 you cant put alot into them, suspension travel is limited dont remeber the exact # it around 10-13 i think, also you can only wideden it so much too, track width is limited in that class, also turbo or supercharger is not allowed either, best bet is to get a rule book like i did, read it cover to cover for you class, then plan a build around that, there are alot of little rules you need to follow and limit yourself too.
sorry not being a buzz kill but i came from BITD racing which is right along the same lines as score, alot of the rules they actually share

 

[mikeE72]

thanks to bolth of you im planning on staying with the ttb front end and doin the same wwith the rear end also on the score website it doesnt say any thing about the turbo or superchargers but it would be best to get a rule book

 

[dusto2]

trust me its in there about the supercharger and turbo,
good luck just keep in mind its cost alot more than you think to run baja,
got to keep in mind pit crews, hotels, food, fuel, extra money to grease the palms of the federallies when they want to f with ya

 

[mikeE72]

i know it sucks doesnt it and especialy gas \
all i could really find were baisic rules and you were wright about the supercharger and turbo

7S/7SX: Vehicles built from a 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive mini or mid-sized pickup having a maximum stock wheelbase of 127''.

Basic Rules:

Suspensions Components:- Front and Rear suspension must be of the same manufacturer, shape, size and configuration as the stock vehicle being used.
- All suspension components except shocks and rear leaf springs will reamin in original stock locations and mounting methods.
- A-arms, I-beams, and front axles must remain stock length; material may be added for strength and stock mounting locations retained.
- Rear springs may be lengthened to that of the longest stock production rear leaf spring as delivered by the manufacturer. (57 1/2")
Engine:- Must be of the same manufacturer basic design and type with a max of 6 cylinders.
- Must use the stock block and cylinder heads as delivered for highway use from the manufacturer.
- Updating and predating is allowed within the vehicle chassis and body series.
- Maximum displacement of 3000cc for 7s.
- Maximum displacement of 4000cc for 7sx.
- Maximun displacement of 4300cc for 7100.

 

[dusto2]

thats what i thought about the suspension stock location and mounting all that stuff just couldnt remeber straight

 

[84projectFORD]

ok so im doin kida what your doin also but ill be doin the 1450 or 1400 class in BITD. i would check out Dezertrangers also but as stated before its all drama in my opinion and everyone likes to state there opinion and not help. check out Deserrides.com or Race-dezert.com lots of helpful info there. as for your truck dont do a supercharger or turbo. you will suck silt through your filter faster than a blink of an eye. no joke. i would drop a 4.0 as you can run that, put a 8.8 rear end under it for strangth and truss, go to Autofab.com and look at there kits for the 7sx class, they are cheap and easy to do. Race-dezert also has most of the stuff your lookin for in their classifieds from what i have seen. also look into whether you want to do a auto or manual. i prefer the manual for simplicity. Pm me if you need any help. i have done alot of reseach in this area and can probably help you out abuch. Livin in AZ is a little easier to get to teh dez than florida too haha.

 

[canyoncritter]

first off, buy a rule book from score. that will anwser your question about turbos and such. they are illeagal.And they will NOT allow you to run in score.

2nd, there is no such thing as bullet proff in baja.Dont belive me, ask the local police cheifs (ok bad pun). but even the million dollar trophy truck's brake.

3rd, I would recomend running a 4wd truck in the 1000,silt bed's, water crossing and hill climbs get torn up before the 7s,7sx trucks come threw.And it will pay for its self.hell the silt beds are just flat out nasty.


7s, and 7sx are both limted to 12 iches of travel in front.stock track width, plus or minius 2inchs.
stock mounting location's must remain, you can add material to them,but you can not move the position.
(ie no extend raduis arms)
boils down to, something like autofabs econo kit is the basics of what you are allowed for a ranger.both 2wd and 4wd.and you can run beefier coil buckets if you like.and you can do things like the stock stubbys radius arms on heims, and the piviot end's on the beams with heims or uniballs.you can also plate them in and such.

stock type sterring, no rams, or crossover etc. stock sterring box. you can run a sterring quickner...ranger boxes are kinda slow.. and after market pumps are ok.you can beef up the sterring linkage,runs heims etc,but must remain stock config.
spicer blue booted, tierod ends and ball joints seem to do allright.

rear spring lenth,can be as long as any man. mini truck, that is in production that runs in the class, ie ranger 55 inches, toyota 57.5. a ranger can have rear leafs as long as the toyota. etc.but they must be mounted as they came on the truck, for a ranger that would be on the frame sides.not under the frame like a toy comes.you can flip the shaclkes.and beef them up and the mounts.

shock's and shock mounts are open as long as the front shock mounts dont protrude threw the hood.

rear end most everyone runs a 9inch, but it must be + or - 2inches in track from stock. 31 spline minium with good guts, 35 spline would be a better choice and 40 would make it dam near bullet proof.Id also run a spool
full truss would be a wise thing.

gears your going to want in the 5 range.for 33's. thats the only draw back about 4wd, is your limited to 5.13's. I dont recomend 35's on the ranger spindals.
you can also box/plate the frame.

eng must be mounted, + - 1inch from stock location.

cab must be mounted in stock location.fire wall must remain in the stock loacation as well.you can get away with massaging it a little for tire clearance.but must have a stock apperance.

trans, is open as long as it is the same man. as the truck...ie you can run a c-4,c-6,t-5 etc. but you cant run a th350,400 or 727 etc.
If you run a auto,your going to need a few good coolers to make it last.and some good guts inside.
M5 would proably do the job if you were good to it, and was in great shape at the start line....

fuel cell is a must, same with 5 points,and some good seats.mastercrafts,beards etc....your back and ass will thank you the better of a seat you get.

full cage of course, for this you will dam sure want a rule book and talk to savage before you start to build it.