Brake job

[Dvine]

Just put on new hub and drove about a mile. Took it back off and there is some damage. I think once the other parts are replaced this won't happen. I'll update when I'm don't but if anyone see a big red flag a warning would be nice.

3 new photos · Apr 25 – 26, 2020 📸

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Uncle Gump]

So... I moved your post to the brake forum.

Lets back this up a bit and tell us what actually was damaged and maybe what you did to it before the damage occurred...

 

[Dvine]

The backing plate and shoes have shiny metal that was there before the new drum. This drum chewed up the backing plate I think

 

[Uncle Gump]

There are both 9 and 10 inch drums... did all the springs stay in place.... hardware rolling around...

Maybe a picture or two will help if you can post some up?

 

[Dvine]

Not sure. The self adjuster wouldn't turn. Think I have wrong size cylinder though. The brake line won't thread into the new one. Can I stop it from leaking while I figure out a solution?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Well... start any brake repair by correcting any leaks... and ensuring the hydraulic system was in working order. That's just the rules...

 

[bobbywalter]

your spacer bar and self adjuster arm are not looking right, or the arm looks like its not even there. maybe its the picture.



buy all new shit. new spring and hardware kit along with shoes and wheel cylinders.

 

[bobbywalter]

both sides complete for 9 in 80 bux shipped. shoes, springs , brake bar struts, wheel cylinders....



rrr

 

[Uncle Gump]

I agree with bobby... I would replace all of it.

Really looks to me like both primary shoes are on the side you took the picture of.

New axle too? Was it bent or like grooved and leaking? Is the backing plate straight?

 

[Dvine]

I agree with bobby... I would replace all of it.

Really looks to me like both primary shoes are on the side you took the picture of.

New axle too? Was it bent or like grooved and leaking? Is the backing plate straight?

Not sure about the plate. Yes, bent axle replaced. That's why I posted pics. Was hoping someone would see it and mention the backing plate. That had the damage I didn't see before changing drums. If the shop replaced my axle shaft and didn't inspect the plate because "we don't do breaks here" he's getting sued or I'm getting a refund. Not leaking far as I know. The cylinder is shit but it's not leaking while installed. Don't use rockauto. This is 3rd time on this break job they have cancelled a part because inventory was wrong or they sent me the wrong part. I.E the cylinder. But the springs and e break are changed, the new drum barley cleared the new pads. Hoping that bleeding the breaks will relax the shoes enough to not grind while driving.

 

[Ranger850]

If you have the original cylinders, you can rebuild them. That way you know they're correct.

 

[Bgunner]

If the self adjuster will not turn then after you bleed the brakes you will still have the "grinding" you are mentioning. The shoes are not adjusted correctly causing the noise you are hearing. I suggest following Bobby's advice and replace it all to eliminate all bad/frozen components.

 

[bobbywalter]

well...i threw the rock auto out there so i had an idea on their pricing...and maybe the parts store was an hour in a direction you dont go.


autozone or napa or whatever... the point was its its cheap. and easy.

if the axle flange was bent you know the backing plate took a hit... i sure as fawk hope those guys inspected the carrier and put a new crosspin in.

you need to check to see if the axle is straight enough it wont kill you in the snow or rain at speed.... unless you dont drive in snow or rain.


i can usually tell if its bad just working the endplay.

 

[pjtoledo]

bleeding the brakes doesn't help the shoes set correctly.
the springs are supposed to pull the tops of the shoes in until they contact the big pin. that action forces fluid back into the lines.
the bottom is set by the adjuster. due to different manufacturers or tolerances I have occasionally had to file the slot in the adjusters
to pull the shoes in far enough.
one technique I use is to lay the drum down and place the shoes inside it. find something the exact diameter of the pin and place it between the tops
of the shoes, put the adjuster in and see if it all fits.
it's not all that unusual to fine tune the fitment of rear brakes.

it's real easy to check the backing plate. bolt anything to the hub that you can manipulate to touch the rim of the plate. then rotate the hub.
a piece of wire like a hanger works perfect. since the axle has some in-out play, keep even pressure on it.

if the axle shaft was bent, how about the wheel?

 

[Dvine]

If the self adjuster will not turn then after you bleed the brakes you will still have the "grinding" you are mentioning. The shoes are not adjusted correctly causing the noise you are hearing. I suggest following Bobby's advice and replace it all to eliminate all bad/frozen components.

Both sides of the adjuster turn correct? I can thread the long side on and off but it will not move once it's installed. Or I'm not pushing hard enough to make it spin. I only kept 2 pieces of OE. They didn't come in the spring kit. The adjuster and ebrake "shoe"