BIG issues with my f150 that i need help fast

[mn_smokeater]

ok guys the storm thats going on means i need my truck so i brought it out but iv got some issues that need fast very fast fixes:

Alternator is making a loud racket possible a Bering is going on it

BOTH manual locking hubs blew out so i have no 4WD

the i think IAC is bad being the engine will not idle down and the tires spin out and i have no low speed control unless i get into the gas or mash the brakes to get anywhere

i started it up early this day and it fired up and idled nice then i shut it off to go to town and when i got back it wouldn't start just cranked so i gave it a few shots of starting fluid and no go. i figured it was from the gas being wet and so i put some isopropal alcohol in it and she started. the idle was real high and the IAC made a loud gasping noise and it did idle down after a bit.

i took it out and i slid into the ditch in my yard got stuck blew the hubs and got pulled out when i went to try to get back home it was an epic task to get in the yard.

Guys what do you think?
i need this thing fixed soon.

 

[gribly]

Sounds like you need to clean the IAC, buy new hubs or weld the old ones together, and get a new alternator. I don't really see how you could fix it cheap, but it's not a lot of work.

 

[mn_smokeater]

the kicker is guess how much i have to spend.

150 bucks...crap...

how do i clean the IAC?

welding hubs? i think the guts are plastic? or something like that

if i need all new parts im lookin at
IAC=70
Altynater=90
Hubs=60-130
sooooo thats 220

i can never win eh.

 

[gribly]

The engagement is done with a plastic piece, but the actual parts that take the torque are still metal. There is a how-to somewhere around this site for welding bronco 2 automatic hubs, I'd assume the F-150 just has a larger version of the same thing. You weld the two pieces together in the locked in position.

I don't know much about working on fuel injected 302s, so I can't help with the IAC. Hell, I don't even know much about F-150's.

You probably could get away with buying just the alternator. I'd use it a bit if the shaft isn't wobbling or anything, and see if it comes out of it. Try to keep use of starting fluid to a bare minimum, that shit is horrible for your engine.

 

[strvger]

check on craig's list for a good used alternator. also for hubs.
iac i have no clue about.
i'll be in the cities starting tomorrow, and won't be back till the middle of next week. if you find something in the cities craig's list, i could bring it up and meet you again in Grand Rapids on my way back to Cloquet, if you can wait that long. if you don't have my cell, pm me and i'll send it to you.

 

[mn_smokeater]

heading to bed will check it after work round 9 gotta be up at 5... il let you know what i find rick.

 

[mn_smokeater]

Ok guys update: trucks running much much smoother and no more funky idle like it had. The altanator was tested and works perfect but I need a idler pully.

I bought a set of warn hubs and started to work on them but got stopped by the snap ring and lack of tools. I assume the guts and cap are the only parts that get swapped out inside the metal body?

 

[gribly]

woohoo!

 

[mn_smokeater]

woohoo!

perzeactly!!!

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

good man!!

i would take the iac out and spray it with some electronic contact cleaner or carb cleaner.
that helped a lot when mine was acting funny(fixed it for like 4 months)

 

[mn_smokeater]

i think i will as it still surging when im going down the road a bit.

il have to have a mod edit the tital a bit.

i was a bit tweaked when i fired this off...if being about ready to empty my 9mm into it counts as tweaked.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

the kicker is guess how much i have to spend.

150 bucks...crap...

how do i clean the IAC?

welding hubs? i think the guts are plastic? or something like that

if i need all new parts im lookin at
IAC=70
Altynater=90
Hubs=60-130
sooooo thats 220

i can never win eh.

You forgot tax Pull the TB off and clean it good same with IAC. A roll of gasket material maybe 5 bucks, see if you can get some temporary hubs at the bone yard or here until you can afford good ones same with a alternator and IAC. Grab some sensors while your at the bone yard. I stopped buying new parts for my Jeep with George the Jeep about 5 miles away.

 

[Iron Ranger]

Do what you can to clean the IAC, buy the most needed parts first, and go from there.

When I put the IAC in the ranger and started it, the idle was going from 400rpm to 1500 rpm. No consitancy whatsoever. So my brother bought a brand new one(not cheap) and put that in. Still idled like crazy.

Then he looked it up and found out that you have to unplug it for 5 mins and let it run for that time, then plug it back in. That way the computer knows it's "limits" so to speak.

This usually happens if the battery has been disconnected for a very long time.

Again, I forgot the offical way to dial in the IAC, so some googling is in order.




Also, I have the original IAC and a tensioner arm/pulley. If you want them I can ship them(at no charge, of course!)

 

[mn_smokeater]

Do what you can to clean the IAC, buy the most needed parts first, and go from there.

When I put the IAC in the ranger and started it, the idle was going from 400rpm to 1500 rpm. No consitancy whatsoever. So my brother bought a brand new one(not cheap) and put that in. Still idled like crazy.

Then he looked it up and found out that you have to unplug it for 5 mins and let it run for that time, then plug it back in. That way the computer knows it's "limits" so to speak.

This usually happens if the battery has been disconnected for a very long time.

Again, I forgot the offical way to dial in the IAC, so some googling is in order.




Also, I have the original IAC and a tensioner arm/pulley. If you want them I can ship them(at no charge, of course!)

i picked up Hubs so i can have 4wd being il be honest here im not a super driver and do get stuck a few times in teh winter

yes please on the IAC an the thingamajigger