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>> Battery hold-down bolt RUSTED in place... Durn... FIXED!!


fixizin

FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Messages
1,147
City
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Vehicle Year
99
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Tire Size
P235/75R15
My credo
A properly suspensioned Ranger can be safely airborne for up to 4 seconds at a time! =:O
Been hitting it with PB Blaster for a couple weeks, no luck yet. Probably from letting battery corrosion get away from me a year or so back. Even though current bolt probably going to be destroyed, need to know the THREAD-spec, so I can either "chase" the current threads in the tray-nut, or... drill and tap the NEXT SIZE UP.

Open to all suggestions, might have to jury-rig some velcro straps as an intermediate hold-down solution.
 
Had the same issue, after soaking didn't work I just cranked on it until the bolt snapped, then beat the insert out with a hammer and punch, then just used a new bolt with a washer and nut underneath the battery tray to hold the plastic wedge piece in place.
 
My hold down bolt failed as well. A couple of minutes with a tap and die to step it up to the nearest appropriate larger bolt and it's been holding strong for a long while now.
 
Had the same issue, after soaking didn't work I just cranked on it until the bolt snapped, then beat the insert out with a hammer and punch, then just used a new bolt with a washer and nut underneath the battery tray to hold the plastic wedge piece in place.
Bingo, yeah that's the setup I've got. I like the "wedge" because it allows different size (depth) batteries... in fact the freaking EXCELLENT OEM/factory battery (7 1/2 years!... in HOT climates) was quite a bit smaller than what the aftermarket catalogs call out... (Group 58 or 59, IIRC??)

I actually muscled it out about 1 full turn before it bound up... should probably re-tighten and re-apply PB Blaster, and get some on the threads that poke through underneath, maybe wire-brush it a bit... hate to lose that "captive" spot-welded nut, but not the end of the world... will splurge for stainless.
 
I forget what I used for a bolt but I did use anti seize compound so hopefully it'll come out without much fuss when I need to replace the battery.
 
Seems I've put a battery in my truck every couple years... I guess it's not long enough between battery replacements for the hold down bolt to seize.
 
they're m6x1, you can get a kit that comes with a new bolt and wedge at most parts stores for a few bucks. I've always cut them off at the top of the wedge, removed the battery then heated the captive nut with an oxy/acetalene torch to remove the rest of the bolt, then chased threads, coated the area with a bit of fluid film then reassembled.
 
Yup, they are metric. Usually either I snap them or someone else has. Once or twice I have cut them off and then extracted the stub like @holyford86 said. If they are snapped or I barely get it out (once I think, lol), I have a box of 1/4” stainless bolts so I just drill, tap, and replace.
 
Mine completely rusted away and now I just let my battery hang out with no security at all. I'm here for a good time not a long time. :icon_cheers:
 
Thanks for all the info! Bolt FINALLY let go, threads shot on the engaged section of the bolt, but captive-nut threads are fine, so for now I just put a rubber spacer at the top so that it engages the good threads farther down the bolt... will search out a stainless replacement bolt, and put some anti-seize goo on that puppy.

PS: Youse guys with your oxy-acetylene torches make me go "URR, Urr, urr..." and start shopping online for my own "gas axe"!... prolly hurt myself... or cutoff a frame member... plus have to find an industrial gasses supplier... then lie to da chixx about all the cool stuff I do with such a setup... :ROFLMAO::icon_welder:
 
Mine completely rusted away and now I just let my battery hang out with no security at all. I'm here for a good time not a long time. :icon_cheers:
That actually caused running issues with my 92 until I fixed it by drilling and tapping for my standard replacement
 
Thanks for all the info! Bolt FINALLY let go, threads shot on the engaged section of the bolt, but captive-nut threads are fine, so for now I just put a rubber spacer at the top so that it engages the good threads farther down the bolt... will search out a stainless replacement bolt, and put some anti-seize goo on that puppy.

PS: Youse guys with your oxy-acetylene torches make me go "URR, Urr, urr..." and start shopping online for my own "gas axe"!... prolly hurt myself... or cutoff a frame member... plus have to find an industrial gasses supplier... then lie to da chixx about all the cool stuff I do with such a setup... :ROFLMAO::icon_welder:
Dad gave me my first torch a long time ago, was his first torch and he rarely used it. I taught myself mostly how to weld with it and cut, dad covered some basics but it wasn’t until I actually ran it that I really understood. Then I bought a big oxy/propane setup, it’s only good for cutting or heating, can’t weld with it like the acetylene, but I have a 100# propane tank and big oxygen bottle. Both have come in quite handy
 

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