Bad coil pack?

[anchorshot]

Misfire

A little over 20k miles ago I was having these same issues.

CEL indicating that both bank 1 and 2 are lean, misfire in cylinder 1, and misfire detected within first 1000 revs. (P0316)

I changed my coil pack out and it fixed the issue. But now 20k later I'm having the same problem. Could the coil pack of failed that quickly? I replaced it with a BWD pack from pepboys.

I have check for vacuum leaks and everything appears fine. I hacked off some of my tailpipe because I bent it on a trail. Not sure if that means anything. Just did radiator flush and has been maintained pretty well for the most part. Also just changed fuel filter.

I'm at 117k now.

 

[anchorshot]

Could a failing Camshaft Position Sensor cause these issues?

I have never changed the syncro.

 

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Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[stmitch]

Doesn't sound like a synchro issue to me. Maybe an injector issue?

 

[TomB1269]

Yes, A failing syncronizer shaft can cause these problems. Mine caused misfire under load over 3000 rpm when warm, when cold misfire was at 5000 rpm and no CEL light. If you have any belt liek squeal this is also a sign of pending failure. If you have not had it changed and you are at 117k miles you are in or close to what seems to be the death zone for the syncro shaft. To check the squeal symptom, remove serpinetine belt and run motor for a minute (you will have no coolant moving with the belt off so keep the time short). If the squeal goes away without the belt on then it is belt and pulleys, if the squeal remains then its the syncro. You may also be able to feel it thump if you get your palm on top of it.

 

[anchorshot]

Yes, A failing syncronizer shaft can cause these problems. Mine caused misfire under load over 3000 rpm when warm, when cold misfire was at 5000 rpm and no CEL light. If you have any belt liek squeal this is also a sign of pending failure. If you have not had it changed and you are at 117k miles you are in or close to what seems to be the death zone for the syncro shaft. To check the squeal symptom, remove serpinetine belt and run motor for a minute (you will have no coolant moving with the belt off so keep the time short). If the squeal goes away without the belt on then it is belt and pulleys, if the squeal remains then its the syncro. You may also be able to feel it thump if you get your palm on top of it.

I dont have the "normal" signs of syncro failure. (No squeaks/squeals and when I put my hand ontop of the sensor there were no abnormal thumps) When I went out to check my PCV hose I noticed my battery connectors are pretty rusted. Maybe I'm not getting a good enough connection? I will change them tomorrow as well as perform a compression test.

I seem to only have a misfire under 2k rpms. Very noticeable at idle and sometimes around 1500-2000

 

[Rearanger]

I seem to only have a misfire under 2k rpms. Very noticeable at idle and sometimes around 1500-2000

High speed misfire usually electrical while low speed misfire usually mixture (vac leak/not enough fuel). I'd pull the plugs and inspect color. Too white = lean. Is misfire when cold and hot or just when hot?

 

[anchorshot]

High speed misfire usually electrical while low speed misfire usually mixture (vac leak/not enough fuel). I'd pull the plugs and inspect color. Too white = lean. Is misfire when cold and hot or just when hot?

Mostly after warm.

 

[JP02XLT]

You can try unplugging the injectors one at a time with it idling, If you have one that is stuck the shock of cycling it closed to open sometimes helps free them & you should be able to isolate the cylinder in question.

JP02XLT

 

[Rearanger]

Mostly after warm.

If there is a small vac leak then cold start rich condition can hide it until the engine is hot and the mixture leans out. You can use the propane method to hunt for vac leaks. Even defective injector o-ring can give slight vac leak. You can also send injectors out for flow testing and cleaning/testing for as little as $15 per injector. I've used Witchhunter and had great turnaround service and before after flow chart; they'll also include new o-rings.

 

[anchorshot]

I did the basics today. Changed coil pack, wires and plugs. Still have the miss. I checked compression, all cylinders had the same. From what I tell there are no vac leaks. I guess I'll pull the injecters and have them cleaned.

 

[anchorshot]

I was looking over my maintenance sheet from when I bought the truck from the dealer and it shows that at 73k it had the cam syncro and sensor replaced. It also showed that it was throwing a CEL and that they replaced a sensor to fix it. Cost was $44. I don't understand the description of the part.

 

[anchorshot]

You can try unplugging the injectors one at a time with it idling, If you have one that is stuck the shock of cycling it closed to open sometimes helps free them & you should be able to isolate the cylinder in question.

The injectors are plugged in right next to the fuel rail correct?

I'm starting to think that this may be a sensor...