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Are Brake Hardlines Getting Cheaper?


MastuhWaffles

11/2014 OTOTM Winner
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
1,855
City
Texas
Vehicle Year
2007
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
31
My credo
I need more sleep.
When I did my explorer axle swap I had to re do the brake lines since they were either to long or short. I got lines from the rack at Oriellys and tried to put them on my truck after bending them. Well they would leak like crazy from the block on top of the axle. And this continued, the lines would leak, and after closer inspection there were little defects in the flanges. Finally after going to an older store they had some that had been sitting on the rack for awhile. After bending and putting those on they worked fantastic, no leaks, no anything. It just seems like to me brake hardlines need to be of the high quality, because if there is any little defect they will leak. New ones are cheaply made.
 
I've always got mine from auto value they are more of an automotive then just a parts store, they are usually half the price of Napa or autozone and they seem like good line, recently I stumbled across about 60 5 foot factory rubberized hard line for free so I'm in no need lately
 
I made my own from Stainless steel line I bought from Summit
(They also sell stainless steel flare nuts)
I had previously replaced the line that run along the frame to the rears
(hiding between the frame and the fuel tank)

I used a borrowed hydraulic flaring tool to do the job
 
I'm with Allan. The shop I work at has the Mastercool Master flaring kit, and I just buy rolls of bulk tubing and flare nuts and make my own lines. It's something that is very important to do correctly, but it's a very useful skill to have.


It's possible, especially if you are buying your lines at the same store, that they had a run that wasn't in the flare machine properly, or the die was a little messed up, and a few got through the QC inspection.
 
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The hydraulic flare tool is very nice and is very easy to use
 
i usually make my own.....the nichrome is pretty good stuff for the rust belt as well....and the price went down by the roll here recently.


but the axle ends i do find a use for the shelf parts and i have had to reflare them sometimes as long as i can remember...the small tubing is easy to defect in mass production.
 
I'm in highschool and they offer a college course I'm in so I have access to allot of nice tools that I just keep making a list to buy
 
When you start buying tools look around on Amazon and Ebay. I have picked up a lot of 80% tools much cheaper than retail that way.

Also, Power Probe and Load Leads are your friends.
 
I'm with Allan. The shop I work at has the Mastercool Master flaring kit, and I just buy rolls of bulk tubing and flare nuts and make my own lines. It's something that is very important to do correctly, but it's a very useful skill to have.


It's possible, especially if you are buying your lines at the same store, that they had a run that wasn't in the flare machine properly, or the die was a little messed up, and a few got through the QC inspection.

I tried different ones, autozone, advance auto parts, etc.. But it was the little family owned shop that actually had decent ones. I guess I shouldn't be expecting to much of cheap hardlines, but I didn't think it would have been this big of a problem, I went through at least 4 different ones. But when its just metal to metal connections I guess it has to be almost perfect.
 
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What type of flare are you running?
 
Okay because the single flare won't seal like the double flare
 
ive never used a hydraulic flaring tool, but have had a bad expeiance with a cheap flaring tool set, thought it was me until i realized the clamp wasnt holding the brake line. i took it back and paid better money for a good one, well worth it! never tried stainless line, probly have to have the hydraulic tool to do that stuff.
 
I was supposed to get some Hastelloy tubing from a friend,but he never managed to get me the 50ft coil I asked him for...

Hastelloy is like stainless steel but someone substituted Cobalt for the Iron, Hastelloy is used in the Pharmasuitical and chemical industries
 

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