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Anyway to do this cheaper?


All I see is a bolt extractor there, I can buy one of those for $7.00 at my local auto parts store. If the extractor doesn't work you will need to drill it out and tap new threads, something I have no experience with.
 
Ya but I'm gonna need a big long drill bit.
 
Thing is, mine is broken beyond the threads.

This kit looks like if its broke with the threads still in.
 
The way you phrased that is a little confusing. Do you mean that you broke the bolt off partway in the hole, or do you mean you stripped the threads out?

How long is the bolt you need to extract and how far is it broke off inside the hole? I think you might be able to put an extension for a drill bit on the extractor, last time I used one I hooked it up to an extension and then used a ratchet to control the amount of torque I was delivering.

You can buy really long drill bits if you need them, I have no idea what kind of length you're going to need though.
 
The bolt broke off about half way inside the shaft. No threads left at all.
 
Drill it out and retap the hole, I'm willing to bet it got rusted or seized somehow and if those threads are damaged you will either have a hard time using an extractor or you won't get it out. Besides, if the threads are gone beyond the bolt you're going to have to tap new threads in anyway. I know how to tap new threads in theory, but I have never actually done it so I'm afraid I can't help you there.
 
I mean the broke is broke off so far inside, there is no thread left at all on the bolt.

The threading on the carrier is fine..
 
How can you know that with the bolt still in the carrier :icon_confused:

Post a picture when you can, I have no idea what you're talking about.
 
How can you know that with the bolt still in the carrier :icon_confused:

Post a picture when you can, I have no idea what you're talking about.

The bolt broke past the threads... The bolt that holds the pin in is only threaded near the head. It has a shank, about 1" long, past the threads. That's what holds the pin in. It common for them to break at the threads because the shank is a smaller diameter then the threaded section.

The only time I had one snap on me I was replacing the carrier with a Detroit Locker. Pulled out the torch and made the removal quick and painless (but smokey).
 
So here is what's going on.
IMG_3376.jpg


I can't believe that the broke broke off inside the pin, but it did.

There is no bolt threading left at all, in fact it's much deeper than that. (New bolt in pic).

IMG_3377.jpg


How far inside it goes.
IMG_3378.jpg


How far inside the old bolt is.
IMG_3379.jpg


Thing is...I don't see why the pin needs to be removed, as one can still access the clips.

So far, the clips have been a pita to take out.

The pinion shaft is scored all to hell, which leaves me to think that the bolt is bent.

Someone drove on it with a hammer and punch to try to break the bolt.
 
Um......... :shok:

That's a tough one, all I can say is that the bolt extractor probably won't work. I've got no clue how to get that out, sorry. :dunno:
 
Can one remove the clips with the shaft still in?

I don't mind if I ruin the clips.
 
After looking it over some more...

The shaft is probably toast since it looks like it has been beat on with a hammer 10,000 times.

I wonder if I get a good, and I mean good drill bit..

If I could drill the shaft out to where the bolt is?

As you can see from this photo, the hole is not that deep on the shaft.

31M1c39vOjL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
If worse comes to worse and I have to end up replacing the whole damn axle...

How many rangers had limited slip? 1 in 3? 1 in 5, 1 in 10?

The JY near me charges the same price for limited slip vs non, so it would be nice to find a L/S, but wondering how rare they are?
 

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