anything i need to do/know before replacing gasket valve covers?

[baxtej44]

had a friend look around under the hood... said my gasket valve covers were tightened WAYYY too much, and now there are gaps, and that's why i was leaking so much oil.

and it was running down all the way down exhaust manifold and everything... smoking


bought new gasket valve covers today, rubber (not high performance)
guy said i don't need the silicon gasket valve sealant.


gonna change them out in a couple of weeks probably.
and while i'm doing it, gonna do an oil change, and a fuel filter swap



btw: need info about where fuel filter is/how to remove, and replace. suggestions on features i should look for on this?

 

[Beanmachine7000]

I've never used silicon sealant when I do valve cover gaskets, I just use the rubber Fel-Pro gasket and tighten it correctly...

FF http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring2008/fuel_filter_swap.htm

 

[chandymanusa]

just replaced mine on 88 ranger with 2.9 used the rubber ones not a problem I used a dab of red silicone on it to hold in place when i put the cover on. tighten in a cross pattern to snug then set to torque spec.

 

[baxtej44]

I've never used silicon sealant when I do valve cover gaskets, I just use the rubber Fel-Pro gasket and tighten it correctly...

FF http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring2008/fuel_filter_swap.htm

just replaced mine on 88 ranger with 2.9 used the rubber ones not a problem I used a dab of red silicone on it to hold in place when i put the cover on. tighten in a cross pattern to snug then set to torque spec.

thanks guys


that's what i have, the felpro rubber gasket
was suggested the cork from a friend (he knows his stuff.. but maybe he just forgot or something), but the rubber was $2 more, and was suggested by the part store, for a total of $11.99

 

[Psychopete]

I've used cork and rubber. Only problem I ran into is when I tried to reuse either of them. I usually use a small dab of sealant where the heads and intake meet up.

My '88 is pretty standard - no A/C, Cruise, etc. I was able to change them out without removing much. I pulled (snuck) them forward under the wiring and hoses/fuel lines and carefully worked them out. Kind of tricky.. Be very careful, old wiring can be tempermental.

Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean, and that the lip on the valve cover isn't all bent up from the over tightening. I also will snug up the bolts when done, warm up the engine, then finally torque them. - Same w/ new hoses, I go back and retighten once the engine is warm.

Pete

 

[baxtej44]

I've used cork and rubber. Only problem I ran into is when I tried to reuse either of them. I usually use a small dab of sealant where the heads and intake meet up.

My '88 is pretty standard - no A/C, Cruise, etc. I was able to change them out without removing much. I pulled (snuck) them forward under the wiring and hoses/fuel lines and carefully worked them out. Kind of tricky.. Be very careful, old wiring can be tempermental.

Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean, and that the lip on the valve cover isn't all bent up from the over tightening. I also will snug up the bolts when done, warm up the engine, then finally torque them. - Same w/ new hoses, I go back and retighten once the engine is warm.

Pete

good tips, thanks.

what can i clean the lip of the valve cover with? and what if it is bent?

the friend that helps me out with all of my stuff says he can probably get them out without taking anything apart... i do have cruise, a/c, etc though.


he said he's never seen gasket valve covers that leaked that much lol... somebody at one time tightened them WAY too much... don't think it would have been a shop, because they don't do anything without charging lol... and it sure as hell wasn't me, i still barely even know what they are lol.

 

[kerry]

If your truck is leaking a lot of oil through the valve cover, chances are that it has been over-tightened & the cover is distorted. Check it with a straight edge before you reinstall it with the new gasket. You can try to straighten it if it is warped, but you might be better off with a new cover.

 

[baxtej44]

If your truck is leaking a lot of oil through the valve cover, chances are that it has been over-tightened & the cover is distorted. Check it with a straight edge before you reinstall it with the new gasket. You can try to straighten it if it is warped, but you might be better off with a new cover.

it drips, and drips the entire way down the inside (of engine compartment of course, not the cab lol) including on the exhaust manifold (i believe) which is why it smoked


it is over-tightened... somebody tightened it to around like 30 instead of reccomended torque of like..12? what is reccomended by you guys?

 

[sjr53]

torque to 62 to 97 inch lbs. Does that translate to 5 to 8 foot lbs.?

 

[baxtej44]

torque to 62 to 97 inch lbs. Does that translate to 5 to 8 foot lbs.?

okay, sounds good.

these were honestly WAY too tight, like i said i'm guessing about 30 foot pounds

 

[RustedRanger]

I saw that more than one guy here said you have to take the fuel rail off to change the drivers side gasket. The Haynes doesn't say that and just looking it appears it would come off without taking off the fuel rail. I glad to see someone that has done it say it can be done The fuel filter is in the frame rail up front on the drivers side. It's hard to get to but is doable. I have big hands and I managed to get it done.

 

[cocoasranger]

On my 89 2.9L Ranger I did not have to take off the fuel rail, but did have to separate both the fuel lines where they passed over the driver's side valve cover. I tried everything, and there was NO way the cover was coming off without disconnecting the lines. It was really no big deal to separate the lines.

 

[Beanmachine7000]

On my BII with A/C I got them out without pulling anything else out... Maybe I'm just lucky?

 

[Psychopete]

I saw that more than one guy here said you have to take the fuel rail off to change the drivers side gasket.

IMO, the fuel rail is harder to get off with the valve cover on, than removing the valve cover with the fuel rail attached. But possible to get fuel rail off with valve cover on, and possible to get valve cover off with fuel rail on. Just have to be selective with what tools you use.

I was also able to get driver's side off with out removing the fuel lines, but on the other hand, they tend variate throughout the years.

Pete

 

[177CIOfPureLove]

I believe I did not have to remove the fuel lines, although its not a huge inconvenience to do so. Make sure to unplug the wiring harnesses on top of the motor and put them off to the side. Leave the fuel rail on for sure. I only ever got them to seal completely with copper silicone sealant (like a gold tube, forget the exact name, withstands heat and oil real good) and don't over tighten, a good rule to know is that a gasket is most efficient @ 30% crushed.