Analysis paralysis, please double-check me

[black_sheep]

I've been staring at parts sites and rebuild threads too long, and the price tag is screwing me up (who woulda thunk that little bit of stuff costs so much?) Would someone double-check my parts list for refreshing a Dana 35 and make sure I'm not missing something, have too much, or getting the wrong part before I spend? I'm stupidly leery of buying one wrong thing....

Wheel Bearings - A37 or SET37
Tie Rod Inner - DS1161 and DS1177
Tie Rod Outer - ES2214R and 15L
Radius Arm Bushings
Ball Joint Upper - K8546
Ball Joint Lower - K8563
U-Joints - (3) 5-760X
Spindle Bearing & Seals - SBK4
Wheel Seals - Timken 4250
Axle Pivot Bushings - K8292
Spindle Lock Nuts (for switch to Warn hubs)
Rotors, Pads, Calipers

 

[Nhaz]

Some of that stuff unless you KNOW its bad like the ball joints and tie rods,wheel bearings you could save money on. same with calipers if they work.. why replace them? Now the slider arms that the caliper mounts on to are a different matter those are a wear item and can loosen up.

Inner tie rod end? I don't think it has one. drop pitman arm and a ball joint affair on the tie rod.

The axle pivot bushings are rather hard to get out and I havent heard of one needing to be replaced other then the one I crushed when I destroyed my front end. and I didnt replace it since the axle beam was buggered. I replaced the whole beam with one from a junker. I still didnt replace that bushing.

There are 5 U joints in that front end 2 on the front drive shaft as well as the 3 on the front axles.

 

[Lignite]

Probably should consider the e-clip deletion in the chunk, and modding the chunk bolt so you can remove it without pulling all of that other crap off. I know I wish I would have did that the first time I had my front end apart! Very cheap parts (a weed eater spring and an all-thread bolt) that make life a LOT easier down the road. Just my opinion.

 

[black_sheep]

and modding the chunk bolt so you can remove it without pulling all of that other crap off.

Haven't heard of this one before, what's involved? I already planned on doing the clip mod for that very reason.

I had the same rational for replacing some of this, it's already out and tore down and I don't know where its been or how long it'd been sitting. I do know one of the upper ball joints is bad, and the calipers were already swiped by the time I got there, so really no choice there. The rotors were toast too, well one could've been saved but...

I knew about the number of u-joints, was thinkin' of holding off on the other 2 until I got the axle done, plus I'm not sure yet which spicers are for the shaft, they're not the 760's are they? The axle pivot bushings though, I just figured it'd be a good idea, but hey, if it ain't worth it no argument here.

Inner tie rod end? I don't think it has one.

Center link/drag link then? I've just always called them inner tie rods

My biggest confusion is making sure all the seals/bearings are there, as that's kinda cryptic with all the part numbers and stuff.

Thanks for the help

 

[Lignite]

There is a good thread somewhere here at TRS about the chunk bolt, my apologies as I can't seem to find it! It is my understanding that to remove that bolt one must pull the radius arm, otherwise the bolt can not be removed due to tight fit (I sure as #%!! couldn't get it out). Memory of the thread says one option would be to grind a bit off of the radius arm (which may not be the best idea for strength reasons), or to use an all threaded bolt so it could be turned out without having to move the radius arm.

All this is of course out of Ford's design spec and may result in injury or death, use at your own discretion. On my third pulling of my chunk now, I'm doing it for Sure. .02

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You cut the head of that bolt into a D shape so that it can fit past the radius arm. Do not cut the radius arm itself.