98 ranger transfer case removal

[DC2]

Hello, new to the forum and looking for help.

Replacing the clutch and all associated parts on my '98 ranger 4wd 3.0 v6. Can't disconnect the front drive shaft from the transfer case. All bolts are off (6 8mm bolts) but it won't disconnect.

Also, the t-case itself seems like it won't budge. Took out 5 bolts (13mm) where the t-case joins the transmission extension, but it will not move. Trying to meet a deadline. Any help is much appreciated.

 

[97RangerXLT]

soak the area where the drive shaft bolts to the transfer case with pb blaster or another type of penetrating oil and see if that helps. other than that, a good smack with a large dead blow hammer might be in order....

AJ

 

[willy]

Bfh should pop it free the flanges like to rust togather soak it in oil then smack it

 

[DC2]

Thanks for the help. Thought I was missing something. Will give it a try this afternoon and let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

 

[DC2]

Got the front shaft off

Sprayed with pb blaster and smacked it wit a rubber mallet. It came off but was not what I expected. Thetop of the flange came off and exposed the bearings inside. I thought the entire assembly that held the bearings would come off as a unit. Is this right? Hope I didn't screw things up. Looks like I can put everything back together ok, it's just not what I thought was going to happen.

As for the t-case, I removed five bolts but it doesn't want to budge. Hope I'm doing this right too. Looks like it takes brute force with a pry bar?!!!

 

[Andy D]

hEH HEH IIRC, I asked pretty near the same question when I did the same job on the Rat. I used a small pry bar, and some wood and a mini maul. to get it loose from the transmission.. I may have dropped the tranny with the TC attached. I use a couple old unmounted tires as a cushion and then drag it out from under. Better to deal with the TC out in the open. I don't have any fancy lifts Just a bunch of old bottle jacks and lots of blocking and cribbing. The Rat isn't a daily driver. So time wasn't wasn't a big factor.

 

[DC2]

How much force are talking? Mine feels like it's welded on!!! I'd like to take everything apart and reseal the grey silicone stuff. I can see where fluid is bleeding out and figure might as well reseal it while t-ccase and tranny are off...if I can get them off. Thanks for the input. I plan to try the pry bar tomorrow. I really didn't count on removal being so difficult. They make it look easy on Youtube.

 

[Andy D]

It took a couple week ends to pry the transmission out of the Rat. I broke a bolt and sawzalled another of the bell housing bolts. The shafts and hardware was rusted together. Plus, I wasn't on a crusade to restore an old pickup to new. I just wanted a beater for occasional use for stuff my cars won't hold. So I tried my darndest to undo every bolt, not shear, them. Amazingly, the shafts came out with no drama. I used a wire brush and a little oil on bolts before I took them apart. A few taps with a 4 oz ball peen to shock stuff.

 

[DC2]

Can not get the t-case off. Feel like I'm missing something. Pounded and pounded with a mallet...nothing moved. Are there more than 5 bolts holding this to the tranny?

 

[AllanD]

there s a "rear cap" that is part of your CV joint that is just a dust cover that probably stayed with the T-case flange...

the T-case is held to the transmission extension housing with 5-bolts and one (likely corroded) dowel pin (Technically a "roll pin", because it is made of rolled-up sheet metal that resembles a "Jelly roll")

 

[don4331]

AllanD:

I haven't separated my M5ODR-1 from BW1354; but when I separated the BW4406 from the 4R70W on the Explorer (when I was getting the 5.0 out) and had front wheels up on ramps so I had clearance to get under; when I separated the transfer case, I was bathed in a couple gallons of ATF... Does the same thing happen with the Ranger transmission/transfer case? And if yes, should one drain both before the mess, not after?

Don