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96 Ranger XLT ext cab 5spd 2.3l wiring harness


T.Wolf

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Mar 26, 2019
Messages
17
City
Central Texas
Vehicle Year
'96
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
My credo
Where there's a Wolf, there's a way...
In the process of stripping out an old audiovox alarm. I ran across a harness that had been tapped in the cab to the left of the steering column. I'm trying to restore it to factory connections. It has 4 wires a red, a black, white/black stripe, and an Orange. The black and the orange were both cut and routed to the alarm. I assume the red and black both go back to the fuse block and the orange and white/black go to an adjacent harness.
The harness is disconnected in the pic but you can see the wire colors clearly. Any help is appreciated. I have no idea what these do, yet. So I don't want to reconnect them by mistake.
 

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I see I was not very clear in my comments, but the harness/connector I'm referring to attaches to the exposed spades (just under the Made in Philippines tag). In looking more closely at the picture, the White/black may go back to the fuse block too. I was pretty tired when I wrote it... sorry.
 
I took a couple more photos and noticed on the similar connector to the left of the light blue label (in my original photo) there is a diode (see picture). It looks like these are supposed to be identical (maybe), but there is no diode on the one that was cut. The only information I can find on the connector is shown in the second picture.

Do I need to find a replacement diode? What does the orange wire do? Does it really just run from one connector with a diode to the other? It seems way too long for just that purpose. I appreciate any help and your patience with my ignorance of the ranger wiring - it is my first, that I've owned about a week. I put an alternator and new battery in it already. The original alternator (according to the previous owner) was due to be replaced at nearly 259,000 miles. Timing belts have been done at 100K increments and clutch was done at 200K. If I can clean up the wiring, the only items left at this point are a gas tank leak (if you fill it, it'll run, then drip down to just under 3/4 on the gauge) and headliner repair.
 

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Looks like a connector for a relay. But I have no idea what circuit. Is there voltage on any of the wires? If so, find out what fuse it's powered from. That might give you a clue. It may be part of the alarm system you are removing, possibly to power a siren or make lights blink.
 
Eric, I agree it connects to a relay of some kind (both connectors do). I'm sure the alarm stuff was an add-on (not stock equipment), but these look like stock relays and connectors.

I discovered in the early darkness tonight the radio backlighting (buttons and knobs) stay on (no key in or on, no lights on) when the connector without the diode is plugged back into the relay. The orange wires for both connectors are just capped at the moment because I don't know if they are supposed to be joined together. If I join them, the door chime rings with no key and drivers door open... I suspect the diode plays a role here. Once I understand the function of the two relays, it'll probably make more sense.
 
Okay. I will eat a little crow here...

I just did a search for audiovox relays and look at the images I found on ebay!!! Thanks Eric!

Although they were installed well enough to appear like stock wiring to me, they seem to be add-on audiovox equipment. Guess I'll trace them back a little further and see where I can remove them. Thank you again.
 

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When I unplugged both relays, I found out one of them causes a problem when removed (the one that still has a diode). If the relay is not connected, turning the key will not engage the starter. Plugging the relay back in, fixes the issue. The wiring goes directly back into the fuse block at the driver's door. The overall wiring to that block from the direction of the firewall seems pretty tight, so I'm not really excited about trying to open up the back. Unless someone has wisdom to get slack, I think I'll just have to live with the relay.
 
More then likely they're for the starter kill and the parking lights. Those are the 2 common ones on a standard alarm system.

On the starter kill relay: The black and the black/white (pins 30 and 87a on the relay)wires would be cut into the engine crank wire coming off the ign switch. Follow those 2 wires and see where they cut the starter circuit.

The parking light flash relay would be wired a little different. It would use pins 30 and 87. One would be fused power and the other would be tapped into the parking lights (or possibly the dash lights, if it backfeeds into the parking lights. That depends on the original installer.) Just completely remove that entire harness.

More then likely the orange wire comes from the alarm box and the red wire is fused power or ground. (Orange and red wires should be pins 85 & 86.) That depends on if the alarm sends a power or a ground signal to activate the relay.
 

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