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94 4x4 4.0 motor mounts


jballard81

Terminal Procrastinater
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2024
Messages
515
City
North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Good afternoon!

Replaced the driver's mount already. Definitely the easier side 😂. I pulled the wheel lining out of the passenger side to remove the nut from the top of the mount. Jumped underneath to take the nut off the bottom of the mount and I'm stuck. There's no access from the tire side bc the frames in the way. Underneath I can get a socket on the nut with a universal joint, but it's at such an odd angle I can't actually loosen the nut.

Folks that have done this job, any tips? It honestly looks like the "easiest" approach would be to remove the wheel and cut an access hole through the frame....


1000007780.jpg

Thanks!
 
They suck, I’ve replaced 3 sets on different rigs. My b2 I had to get a torch up there and just cut them off because they were so rusty.
On my other rig, it was a quarter turn with a flex head 3/8s ratchet. I’m pretty sure that was what worked.
 
They suck, I’ve replaced 3 sets on different rigs. My b2 I had to get a torch up there and just cut them off because they were so rusty.
On my other rig, it was a quarter turn with a flex head 3/8s ratchet. I’m pretty sure that was what worked.
Flex head 3/8s? I will have to give it a shot. I got a socket with a universal on it but it was such a bad angle it wasn't budging.
 
So i can get a flex head ratchet on it, but i can't get enough fingers in there to get it to click one tooth so that i can try and loosen the nut.

I'm going to try putting some tape or grease in the socket to get it to stick to the nut a little better. maybe then i can maneuver two fingers around enough to get it to click over one tooth.

would lifting the frame and suspension help at all? to me it doesn't look like there would be much droop from the k-frame and the front axle (stock suspension). but maybe i'm wrong?
 
Wanted to make a quick guide for what worked for me to remove the passenger side engine mount on a 4x4 4.0:
-To remove the nut from the top of the mount, I removed the wheel liner. Gave straight shot to get a deep well 18mm socket and cheater bar on it.
View from above passenger side wheel:
PXL_20240813_185424715.jpg



-To remove the nut on the bottom of the mount, I lifted the passenger side of the frame a few inches, the tire was still making contact on the ground:
PXL_20240813_185402597.jpg


-Then I used a 3/8's flex-head ratchet and a deep 18mm socket and the little bit of suspension droop gave me enough room to snake the ratchet in from in front of the oil filter:
PXL_20240813_185518385.jpg

*This picture is taken just below the oil filter, you can see out the passenger side wheel well*

-This gave me JUST enough room for one click on my 72 tooth ratchet. There was enough room to get a cheater bar in there as well since i could only get two fingers on the ratchet itself.
**If you have an extendable flex head ratchet, that would make this easier**

-After removing the nut, I lifted the engine using a bottle jack and 2x6's on the oil pan behind the front cross member.

-I had to do a lot of wiggling and prying to get the new mount in. Then slowly lowered the engine back down until the bottom bolt and pin were through the k-frame first.

-Once the top bolt was peaking through the engine bracket, i continued to lower the engine until it touched the pin on the mount. It was close so I used a long pry bar to jiggle the mount and bracket until it lined up.

-Top nut gets reinstalled through the wheel well, then reinstall the wheel liner.

-Bottom nut goes back on reverse of taking it off. I ended up taking a few breaks during the process of removing/installing the bottom nut b/c my arm would get tired and the ratchet would keep slipping off.
 
Last edited:

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