'93 with Manual Hubs Stuck in Low Range -Help!

[Warmblood58]

Hi, used my new to me Ford Ranger 4x4 system on a steep driveway yesterday. I was able to lock hubs (manual system not automatic) and shift tcase in lowrange. All was fine, but now I cannot get this truck out of low range. What I am doing wrong? Procedure? This truck is a '93 XLT with manual hubs and manual 5 speed transmission. I know the automatic systems have their issues but did not expect this with a fully manual system. Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[cstarbard]

The locking hubs will only affect your ability to be in 4wd or 2wd, which I imagine you know so I apologize if I'm stating the obvious.

Do you have a manual shift transfer case or electric shift?

I have no experience with the electric (push button) shift transfer cases, don't know if its possible that motor could get stuck causing you to be stuck in low range, but just a thought, hopefully someone else knows better

As for the manual shift transfer case, there isn't a whole lot going on inside it (I've rebuilt one). When you say you can't get it out of 4lo, do you mean the shifter lever won't move? If so that would just be crusty linkage that penetrating oil and some movement should help. If that's not the case and you mean you can move shift lever but are still in 4lo, hopefully there isn't an internal issue with your transfer case. I would start by checking that the linkage from the manual 4wd shift lever is still connected to the shift shaft on the transfer case. The shift shaft is a little bent steel arm bolted outside the transfer case body- visible from underneath the truck. The lever in the cab basically changes the position of that shaft on the outside of the transfer case to move between 2hi, 4high, N 4lo, etc. If the linkage has fallen off it somehow then you wouldn't be able to shift. but the lever in the cab would still move. The shift assembly is spring loaded inside the case so that it wants to move positively between positions (2hi, 4 high, N, 4Lo). It shouldn't be able to get stuck between or in positions, but if the spring inside failed I could see how the linkage might not be able to move the shift shaft anymore because the linkage basically hooks around a pin on the external shift shaft, i e the shift shaft and shift linkage are not bolted to one another. The shift linkage basically nudges the shift shaft on the transfer case, which being spring loaded, basically completes the shift itself by popping into the exact position it needs to be in to be in the setting you were shifting toward, which is why it's not necessary that the shift shaft be bolted to the shift linkage. All of this is not that lucidly written, I apologize, but it should be pretty clear if you're looking at the setup under the truck

The four low range uses a set of planetary gears to get a reduction, there is a collar gear of sorts that is moved by a shift fork to engage or disengage 4lo planetary assembly. the shift fork in charge of this is moved by a plate with pathways machined into it , attached to the shift shaft that enters from outside of transfer case. This plate is what is spring loaded so that the case neatly goes into and between positions. Just to give you a context of that- pretty simple, should be hard to break under normal use

Best bet would be to start by checking that linkage is still in contact with shift shaft; if the slot in linkage is around pin on shift shaft, that's what you want. If you can get a helper, have someone shift through the transfer case with truck off while you watch the linkage, each position should be a firm visible click-like change of shift shaft's angle, should hear the click too, its definitely audible. Please do this on level ground with e brake and chocked wheels- truck will want to roll in Neutral position of t case

If all that checks out you may have damage inside the transfer case. If you want me to take pictures of anything on my truck (96 manual trans with manual t case) for clarification I'm happy to

 

[RonD]

As said above manual hubs can be left Locked all the time if you want, 2001 and up Rangers were this way.
2WD or 4WD are done in the transfer case only, on any 4x4

For 4low you have to have clutch pedal down all the way(manual trans), and foot on the brake to shift into or out of 4low

If you are on a hill, up or down, move to a more level spot before trying to shift out of 4low, the torque on the drive shafts, at the transfer case, can hold it in 4low if on a hill

And yes there is always the possibility that the electric shift motor picked this moment to quit working.
You can tap on it with a hammer or wrench that can get it to work again, but it would need to be rebuilt, brushes are sticking.

Here is the system you have: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-rebuild-4x4-shift-motor.123542/

You can also remove shift motor, 4 bolts and then use pliers to shift to 2WD
4th picture down shows transfer case shift rod pointed at 2WD(2H) and arrows for direction it needs to turn
But BE CAREFULL!!!
A Truck wheel needs to be blocked, on both sides, because transfer case DOES have NEUTRAL, its in between 4l and 4h across from 2h, and truck WILL ROLL AWAY in Neutral

 

[Warmblood58]

Found problem

Earlier today before I dashed to the airport to pick up my gal I laid under the truck and sure enough, the linkage is disconnected. How in the heck does that happen? Looks like the pin just rides within the fork and that is it -correct? No retaining clip? So now I will find some level ground and have a helper move tcase lever so that I can realign pin back within fork and that should fix it. Thanks

 

[Warmblood58]

As said above manual hubs can be left Locked all the time if you want, 2001 and up Rangers were this way.
2WD or 4WD are done in the transfer case only, on any 4x4

For 4low you have to have clutch pedal down all the way(manual trans), and foot on the brake to shift into or out of 4low

If you are on a hill, up or down, move to a more level spot before trying to shift out of 4low, the torque on the drive shafts, at the transfer case, can hold it in 4low if on a hill

And yes there is always the possibility that the electric shift motor picked this moment to quit working.
You can tap on it with a hammer or wrench that can get it to work again, but it would need to be rebuilt, brushes are stickin

Here is the system you have: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-rebuild-4x4-shift-motor.123542/

You can also remove shift motor, 4 bolts and then use pliers to shift to 2WD
4th picture down shows transfer case shift rod pointed at 2WD(2H) and arrows for direction it needs to turn
But BE CAREFULL!!!
A Truck wheel needs to be blocked, on both sides, because transfer case DOES have NEUTRAL, its in between 4l and 4h across from 2h, and truck WILL ROLL AWAY in Neutral

Nope, this system ALL manual as stated, manually locking hubs, manual tcase, and transmission.

 

[Warmblood58]

Nope, all manual as stated - before I left for the airport I crawled under to take a peek and sure enough, linkage pin no longer riding within fork -how does this happen? Does spring setup within shift lever maintain some tension? I am guessing that I can orient pin back within fork with the help of a partner moving lever from above?

 

[cstarbard]

As said above manual hubs can be left Locked all the time if you want, 2001 and up Rangers were this way.
2WD or 4WD are done in the transfer case only, on any 4x4

For 4low you have to have clutch pedal down all the way(manual trans), and foot on the brake to shift into or out of 4low

If you are on a hill, up or down, move to a more level spot before trying to shift out of 4low, the torque on the drive shafts, at the transfer case, can hold it in 4low if on a hill

And yes there is always the possibility that the electric shift motor picked this moment to quit working.
You can tap on it with a hammer or wrench that can get it to work again, but it would need to be rebuilt, brushes are sticking.

Here is the system you have: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-rebuild-4x4-shift-motor.123542/

You can also remove shift motor, 4 bolts and then use pliers to shift to 2WD
4th picture down shows transfer case shift rod pointed at 2WD(2H) and arrows for direction it needs to turn
But BE CAREFULL!!!
A Truck wheel needs to be blocked, on both sides, because transfer case DOES have NEUTRAL, its in between 4l and 4h across from 2h, and truck WILL ROLL AWAY in Neutral

I forgot about having to come to stop, holding brake pedal for shifting out of 4lo. Thanks for that and everything else you said as always Ron!

 

[Warmblood58]

Looking at a parts diagram it appears there is a little rubber "D" shaped bushing that fits within fork?

 

[4x4junkie]

There should be a plastic bushing around that pin that fits within the space between the pin and the fork... It missing would be likely to cause a shifting issue like you describe.

Edit:
Appears you found a pic of the same part the same time I was trying to find a pic of one (and were more successful than I too)... lol Yeah that's the part.

 

[cstarbard]

Nope, all manual as stated - before I left for the airport I crawled under to take a peek and sure enough, linkage pin no longer riding within fork -how does this happen? Does spring setup within shift lever maintain some tension? I am guessing that I can orient pin back within fork with the help of a partner moving lever from above?

I'm not sure how the linkage popped off, I don't remember exactly what it looks like without looking at mine. Double check that there are no loose bolts holding linkage together or loose bolts holding linkage to trans (I believe that is what primarily supports the linkage, a bolt to trans).

There are essentially two springs in the internal shift assembly holding tension on the shift assembly. One is a spring loaded plunger and the other is more traditional looking. They work together to keep tension on/alignment of shift plate so that when the shift shaft is rotated, it wants to pop into the next setting forward or backward in the shift pattern, and no less/farther. It is highly unlikely in my opinion that those are damaged, and there is no way for them to get out of place/stop working unless some pretty severe damage occurred to the internal t case shift assembly. So its likely your shift linkage is just loose somewhere, just double check it and rectify any looseness and you should be good to go.

As for orientation of shift shaft compared to shift linkage: as I recall, in 2high the shift shaft arm on the transfer case will be angled up about 45-60 degrees, and in 4 lo it will be about straight horizontal. You should be able to push the shift shaft arm on the transfer case to either position by hand or with a pair of pliers, and then its just a matter of having someone shift the t case lever for you slowly while you try to get the linkage on. Once the shift linkage is on/surrounding the shift shaft arm pin, have them row through the positions with the truck not running, chocked on level ground, and see if the linkage pops out again and what the cause is, should be easy to see, linkage is pretty simple in design

Ive never really liked the fact that the shift linkage isn't bolted or more securely fastened to the the shift shaft arm of the t case, but when in good order it does work fine

Edit: my plastic bushing on the shift shaft arm is long gone and I have yet to have the linkage pop off shift shaft arm pin... hopefully that is not something I start to experience lol!

 

[Warmblood58]

Thanks so much, yes, good information to set my mind at ease. I will reorient fork and shaft and then check for lateral play or other -might even slip a short section of tubing over the little shaft (to replace missing bushing) and then lubricate appropriately - everything looked bone dry up there. Truck only has 123,000 on it so likely no one has been there before. Time to drain tcase (and trans for that matter) replace fluid-MerconV asI understand.

 

[4x4junkie]

Don't use Mercon V, use what is now called "Dex/Merc" fluid (it is the same formula your truck originally called for (Mercon), renamed to Dex/Merc because of Ford & GM's shenanigans with licensing of the fluid name a bit over 10 years ago). Mercon V has been seen to cause hard shifting in manual transmissions that call for ATF.

A good option if you want synthetic would be RP Synchromax fluid.

Mercon V would likely be fine in a manual-shifted T-case, however it too originally spec'ed Mercon (Dex/Merc).

 

[Warmblood58]

Great advice, thanks!

 

[Warmblood58]

Don't use Mercon V, use what is now called "Dex/Merc" fluid (it is the same formula your truck originally called for (Mercon), renamed to Dex/Merc because of Ford & GM's shenanigans with licensing of the fluid name a bit over 10 years ago). Mercon V has been seen to cause hard shifting in manual transmissions that call for ATF.

A good option if you want synthetic would be RP Synchromax fluid.

Mercon V would likely be fine in a manual-shifted T-case, however it too originally spec'ed Mercon (Dex/Merc).

Thanks, so Dex/Merc in both Tcase and trans (5 speed) yes? Looks like the transmission is an M code R-1. Thanks again

 

[Warmblood58]

New Problem- Popping out of 2H

So serviced tcase and trans today (Dex/Merc) tcase fluid dirty (boo!) trans fluid still a little reddish (yea!) Again, this is a five speed, manual t case with manual locking hubs. I was able to pop shift linkage pin back into fork fairly easily with a little help from a helper moving shift lever through its range. Pin bushing is gone - wonder if it popped off the other day when I used 4x4 lo the first time? I used a waxy lubricant that clings well for the linkage, now my truck seems to pop out of 2H easily when driving on the street. It also seems like my tcase shift lever is not really engaging positively in 2H. Does the missing bushing make a difference in maintaining tcase lever position? Anyone have the Ford part number for this pin bushing? My truck is a 1993 XLT 4x4 with 4.0 liter V6. Oh, one last thought, on the manual tcase trucks - any need to pull up or push down on tcase lever when operating? Thanks!