88B2 Power Windows Roll Up Slow

[wildbill23c]

The windows in my Bronco 2 are powered, they go up slowly. I would assume that the motors need replaced?

 

[RonD]

Check system voltage first

Does window speed change if engine is off or on?

Voltage with engine off should be 12.5volts
Voltage with engine/alternator on should be 14 volts

If both windows are slow then I would suspect alternator/charging system

 

[wildbill23c]

I plugged in a clock/thermometer/voltage gauge yesterday and the voltage readings were jumping around a bit but were in the 14v area with engine running which seems kind of high at idle.

I was thinking a while back that the alternator and/or battery may need replaced as the lights dim and fan speed slows down at idle then as soon as you hit the accelerator a bit the lights brighten and fan speed goes back to normal.

This problem with the windows was occurring before the light/fan issues though. But after thinking about it, a failing alternator and/or battery would make sense. I guess I need to get them load tested...just not in a hurry to spend a $100+ on an alternator or battery LOL.

 

[pjtoledo]

I don't know about Idaho, but in the great rust belt the tracks on some vehicles corrode and swell. that restricts movement of the glass.

 

[hank857]

could be just poor ground contacts. take door liners off and check for corrosion or loose ground points. I have kinda same issue just havent been ambitious enough to pull it apart.

 

[RonD]

Lights dimming and fan slowing at idle means one of the 3 fields in the alternator isn't working.

Not a big deal since you don't spend alot of time idling, but alternator will need to be replaced at some point.

And not the source of the trouble with the windows.
You can pull drivers door panel and check voltages at the switch, bad/corroded ground or corroded 12volt wire will pull more amps and slow motors down.

My reasoning that it is a voltage issue is because BOTH motors are slow

 

[wildbill23c]

Lights dimming and fan slowing at idle means one of the 3 fields in the alternator isn't working.

Not a big deal since you don't spend alot of time idling, but alternator will need to be replaced at some point.

And not the source of the trouble with the windows.
You can pull drivers door panel and check voltages at the switch, bad/corroded ground or corroded 12volt wire will pull more amps and slow motors down.

My reasoning that it is a voltage issue is because BOTH motors are slow

Thanks for your help RonD. When the weather warms up and this foot of snow is gone so I can comfortably take stuff apart without losing fasteners in the snow I'll dig into the window issue. I think a new alternator is in serious order in the very near future. I was looking at the voltage meter I plugged in and its bouncing all over the place. It goes from 13.7 to 14.8 and it just bounces all over between those ranges.

Do these have an external voltage regulator or were the 88's internal to the alternator?

 

[Andy D]

Coupla different things going on here. What the temp in Idaho? Be happy windows work at all. The grease on the regulator and such must be like cement Come spring, I would clean out the old grease and replace it with white grease. Maybe loss at the switches too.

 

[JerryC]

You could also try some silicone spray on the window felt in the window channels to lower the drag on the glass.

 

[JerryC]

It's probably a good idea to put a battery charger on it to be sure the battery is fully charged and then check your charging voltage. Also, check/clean your battery cables/terminals.

 

[wildbill23c]

Battery cables and terminals are clean, voltage is jumping all over the place...least it was yesterday when I had it running.

I think the alternator is headed south but not sure what damn alternator it takes, autozone shows several different ones, mine has AC, the V-Groove Pulley, and if I recall it has 2 plugs on the alternator. Of course the damn things are $100+. Wondering if there's a way to do an external voltage regulator and one of the older style alternators?

 

[wildbill23c]

Coupla different things going on here. What the temp in Idaho? Be happy windows work at all. The grease on the regulator and such must be like cement Come spring, I would clean out the old grease and replace it with white grease. Maybe loss at the switches too.

Temps have nothing to do with it. They roll up slow even in the middle of summer LOL. I haven't driven it in over a month now thanks to the garbage manual hubs in it. I swear the PO must have driven or towed the damn thing with the hubs locked in. When I got it this past summer the hubs were locked...I seriously bet that is what took out the transmission, he was pulling it behind his RV with the damn hubs engaged.

 

[JerryC]

I just took my old alternator into a NAPA and they looked up a replacement. They swapped the pulley over to the replacement. A couple of years ago it cost about $80.
The old alt pushed almost 15v, new 14.5v. I replaced the old alt because it howled like mad.

 

[JerryC]

Another thought, do you have the ground strap that goes from the engine to the body? On mine it goes from the driver cylinder head to the firewall.

 

[wildbill23c]

Ground straps are there. The current alternator is pushing 15V as well and then bounces all over the place but never goes below 14.7V. Thinking something is wrong with it and I need to get it replaced ASAP before it causes damage to everything.

When the weather straightens out I'll dig into the windows, too cold right now its -12 right now LOL.