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5r55e Slight shift flare when warm


I honestly don't feel confident in tearing into my transmission haha
 
I wouldn't suggest a virgin to go balls deep.

You have to drop the pan, unbolt the filter, unclip the solenoid harness, and remove all the 10mm BLACK bolts from the valve body (take note where they go because they are different lengths) remove the valve body and separator plate. Have a CLEAN working area and some small tools like forceps and needle nose pliers. Use penetrating oil to clean out any passages. Install the parts per their directions (sonnax did not come with instructions but its basically replacing the existing sleeve/piston with their unit and you use the same spool, springs, retaining clip, ect...)

Once done bolt the valve body back on in two steps following torque sequence (60in-lbs and 80in-lbs is what I do) over tightening will cause the trans to start in wrong gear, so beware. Oh, and make sure to line your shift linkage up before bolting down. It can easily be forgotten and you'll have to go back in there. Anyway, reinstall electrical harness and filter, clean the pan and bolt it on, then add 3 quarts of fluid. Bring truck to operating temp and fill your trans 1/4 quart at a time until you reach the middle of the cross hatch on your dipstick. Then pull your transmission cooler lines and plug the return. Feed the supply into a bucket with marks at each "quart" of fluid level and turn the truck on. As it spits old fluid out fill with new fluid through the dipstick tube at aprox. rate it comes out (don't worry, it comes out slow enough where you don't need to scramble) Have someone cycle through the gear selector to get new fluid into all the circuits. Install an inline filter (stock filters up to 120ish micron, aftermarket filters will stop all the finer stuff) and put it back together. Drive it around and check your fluid level a few more times just to be sure.

This took me about 6 hours. Be prepared for an ATF shower!
 
Oh! Never thought to look for videos. lol, I don't agree with him leaving the valve body untouched, nor replacing the gaskets (should have purchased a seperator plate with bonded gasket so this problem doesn't come back). Also, he's using a torque wrench that measures ft-lbs, I'd suggest a 1/4 drive inch pound wrench for accuracy.

Do it with a buddy. Or your wife (after all, she remembers how you f-ed up her birthday ten years ago, she should be able to keep track of a few parts).
 
how much is the bonded separator plate?
And i'm 18, so i'm not married haha
 
A local Ford dealer quoted me about $500.

This is one case where I wouldn't use the dealer. You'll get the same POS that it came with back in there. The aftermarket has fixed a lot of Ford's mistakes in these, and they are more durable as a result.
 
what about a transmission shop? would they use the upgrades?
 
Ok. I don't know if i should sell it or fix it. After it is repaired with the upgraded parts, would it be likely to need repairing again (like within 100k)?

I'm pissed because the first thing I asked the guy when I went to look at it was if the transmission had problems and he said no, and I didn't notice it till a week after I bought it! plus the battery just took a dump on me so I guess I have a pretty expensive repair list.
 
Iam interested in this thread and the advice Gotta gofast is contributing.
I just bought a 2001 with 4.0 and the 5 speed auto trans. Nothing wrong
so far but i wanted a 5 speed manual but now have the auto. So i wanna
make it a strong auto. If any problems arise. Iam very mechanically inclined
Anyway not hijacking a thread just saying i appreciate the thread and will
be reading.
 
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This is one case where I wouldn't use the dealer. You'll get the same POS that it came with back in there. The aftermarket has fixed a lot of Ford's mistakes in these, and they are more durable as a result.

Ford issued a TSB for this very problem and has an updated part to fix it.
 
how does this upgraded part compare to an aftermarket one?
 

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