5.0 camshaft timing sensor stuff

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… working on my 5.0 swap and I’m a little fuzzy on how to do this correctly. Let me give a little information first. So I have a 00 Ranger (was a 4.0 auto 4x4, extended cab, power everything, etc. ideal swap candidate basically). Originally I was going to use a 97 Explorer until I realized it would be a less than ideal donor. Went to buy what was supposed to be a 99 Explorer but it turned out to be a 98 and I was made an offer that I didn’t really want to turn down, so my donor ended up being a 98 Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 (auto, AWD, etc). Had a guy offer to trade everything I need to convert it to a 00 in exchange for my 98 parts, so that’s computer, engine harness, fuel rail, injectors, cam sensor assembly, PATS module and ignition cylinder with keys.

The 98 used a 3 wire sensor and the 00 uses a 2 wire sensor, and both have different looking assemblies that go in the distributor hole. I’ve found that these have to be set right or it screws up the fuel mapping and can damage the motor. The tech archives on here explain this (also for 3.0 and 4.0 motors) and says to use a specific tool for it and gives Ford part numbers, which of course are no longer available but cross to an OTC tool which lead me to a set sold by Cardone that says it covers like 94% of all Ford motors that need this sort of thing and the set was just a couple bucks more than the one tool from OTC. Figured that this may be used again some day on something, so I got the set, which conveniently came with zero instructions or information.

So here I am, not particularly sure how to solve this riddle. One of the tools looks like the OTC one that claims to match the Ford part number but it looks right for the 98 and wrong for the 00. There are two that look possibly right for the 00 and both fit, but they clock it different. No mention of any of this in the tech archives. Went on Cardone’s site and checked a couple other places and can’t find any information. Cardone has nothing. On Amazon I came across one person who said there was a tag or paper or something inside the box of his that said what piece gets used with what application, but conveniently failed to post a pic and thus far I have found none of that information.

Can someone please explain this for me? Not exactly sure how to handle this and I don’t want to get it wrong. Not in a huge hurry (the motor still has to make it’s way back in the truck and the entire front end needs put back together), but I’m going to have to get this figured out somewhat soon.

The top of the 98 cam sensor thing (I believe removed gently at TDC)

The top of the 00 one

The Cardone set #848400T or #84-8400T

The grey one looks similar to the OTC one that crosses to the Ford one. The black one and the blue one both fit the 00. Well, the grey one will fit, but I’m thinking it’s incorrect for an 00 but correct for a 98 since the vane you’re trying to position is different. Hopefully someone here can shed some light…

 

[RonD]

The gloss black one for sure
For 1999 and up 2 wire cam sensor synchro timing

Mis-timing won't hurt anything so put that out of your mind
And you only need to get it within 5deg either way for it to be correctly timed

The Crank sensor is used by the computer for TDC, and Batch Fire injection for startup
Cam Sensor is used to fine tune intake valve opening with injector opening for Sequential injection for best MPG, the cam shaft turns slower so has more resolution to fine tune than crank shaft

You do need to have crank/engine set on #1 TDC Compression stroke to set/time Cam synchro
Once its set and engine is running the computer can/will adjust the signal to match crank sensor's TDC for #1 and #6, so there is some leeway
Its NOT like a distributor as far as precise timing, and running issue, if its way off then it can cause running issues and will set a code, but no engine damage
Computer just switches over to Batch Fire

You can turn the synchro housing to any position you want so the sensors 2 wire connector is off to a side that is easy to get to and won't hit the anything
Then turn the rotor to match the tool and lower synchro down, it will turn a bit
You usually have to turn the crank manually 90deg left and right for synchro/rotor to sit all the way down, thats so it engages the oil pump drive

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks @RonD , I kinda figured as long as the tool is used to keep it lined up right it shouldn’t matter which way the sensor points and that confirms it. I’m pretty sure I’m TDC, looks like both valves are closed. The marks looked like they lined up good when I put the new timing chain set on. I always worry that I’m 180* out with this stuff.

 

[RonD]

Well both valves are closed on #1 TDC and #6 TDC so Cam sensor can be 180deg off

Crank/cam timing can never be 180deg off, because cam sets whether #1 or #6 is on compression stroke TDC, crank doesn't care

So you need to know when #1 is on its compression stroke TDC to set cam sensor up
If you turn the engine clock wise and #1 intake valve starts to open then you were on the wrong TDC, rotate crank one full turn and you will be on the right TDC
If intake valve(no valve) opens then you were on the right TDC so turn it back counterclockwise to TDC

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well both valves are closed on #1 TDC and #6 TDC so Cam sensor can be 180deg off

Crank/cam timing can never be 180deg off, because cam sets whether #1 or #6 is on compression stroke TDC, crank doesn't care

So you need to know when #1 is on its compression stroke TDC to set cam sensor up
If you turn the engine clock wise and #1 intake valve starts to open then you were on the wrong TDC, rotate crank one full turn and you will be on the right TDC
If intake valve(no valve) opens then you were on the right TDC so turn it back counterclockwise to TDC

So I’m having a brain fart or something, when you say clockwise is that if I’m standing in front of the motor and turn it clockwise (to my right), or is it clockwise based in relation to the drivers seat (which would be to the left if you’re standing facing the front of the motor)?

 

[RonD]

Standing in front of the engine, most usually turn the crank using the crank/pulley bolt so I used that orientation

Most engines spin counter-clockwise if looking from the rear, the flywheel end, pretty much the standard design for engine makers, although there are a few that were designed with "reverse" rotation

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So I finally got to it the other day, no valves moved on #1 so I locked it down and left the motor at TDC until I go to start it. Used the black tool from the set.