4wd conversion or 4cyl swap?

[JelloB1afra]

I want a 2001 ranger, but i also want a 4cyl AND 4wd. i know they stopped putting the 4bangers in the 4x4's so i am left with only a couple options.

(also, i would want it to be an extended cab with the two little jump seats.) i dont know if that would come into play trying to find the right combo

what would be the better idea? swapping in a 4cyl or converting to 4 wheel drive

my plan is to put together a light expedition vehicle for remote camping.

 

[bobbywalter]

put a vw turbo diesel in a 4x4 ext cab that has a blown engine.


unless you have some other bad ass 4cyl to haul all that stuff around.

 

[Captain Ledd]

4 cylinders are ok in the lighter trucks, but an extended cab might be just a little much. Honestly I'd just get one with a 3.0L, or just eat the 4.0 mileage.

I've got 4.56 gears on little 235/75R15 tires in my '97 and honestly it feels about where it should be. And it's still on the slow side compared to my friends '94 4.0L with 3.08 gears (albeit with the little 14" rims/tires still since it's 2wd).

Either way has it's merits.

To do a 4 cyl swap, you'll need not only the engine and electronics, but also the transmission. Plan on rebuilding the transmission to 4x4 specs as they're only slightly less rare than hen's teeth. Reassemble as a 4x4 as per manufacturer spec. You'll probably need some other misc engine related parts.

For a 4x4 swap, you'll need to pull the body off the frame (yes all of it), and switch it over to the new 4x4 frame. You'll still need to rebuild the 4 cyl's transmission to 4x4 spec as 4x4 versions are only slightly less rare than hen's teeth. Reassemble as a 4x4 per manufacturer spec.

4 cylinder engines will ONLY fit on 4 cylinder transmissions. Not 3.0l, not 4.0l. Transfercases are 100% interchangeable with the same type, 1350 or 1354 (really only for front driveshaft reasons, transmission wise they'll swap with everything)

Finally I'll leave you with what I tell people who want to attempt this.

The only reason you do this kind of swap is if the truck has sentimental value to you, or you really enjoy making things difficult for yourself. Note the signature down below.

 

[JelloB1afra]

thanks, dudes. that pretty much lays it all right there for me. i didnt think the extra couple feet of cab would weigh much more but i guess it does. ill look at getting the 4x4 first and figure out powerplants later.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Oh, forgot to add my friends '94 is an extended cab.

Believe it or not, I'm going the frame swap route. Have the donor truck and even spare parts on top of that.

A number of rather pricey parts (like the rear axle) are already pretty unique to my 4 cylinder setup, so it's easier/economical for me to just keep it.

It's the first truck I remember growing up with (apparently my dad had an ugly old Dodge until I was 3 or so), so it's kinda my first truck. But I also do like making things difficult for myself LOL.

Just need time, which will hopefully happen after a better job so I have a regular, non-crazy-times-through-the-day schedule and more pay.

 

[JelloB1afra]

oo sounds wicked. you got a build thread goin on?

 

[Captain Ledd]

Not yet. But soooo many people ask about it I will do some sort of thread explaining the process. The axle was technically the first mod, but a Explorer swapped rear axle with a re-gear and a locker is hardly worthy of a thread.

There is one floating around for converting one of the newer ones to 4wd. It was an Edge model so it had most of the 4wd parts on it already. Still easier to just buy one already 4wd.

 

[JelloB1afra]

im definitely looking forward to it. i know a lot of you dudes do the 8.8 swap, and theres a good amount of information on here. is it difficult? some of the people on the ford maverick sight do it on their comets and mavs and it's a pain in the ass.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Not too difficult. Just need the right equipment and be comfortable/competent with it.

Angle finder, measuring tape, and a welder are really all you need.

Technically a grinder of you want to remove the old spring pads, but they're in the same spot as the Ranger's just on the wrong side of the tube. Leaving them on won't hurt anything, you just buy new pads for the top. You will also need some sort of shock mount, as Explorer's mount their shocks differently. You can also buy these, I carefully cut mine off the old 7.5" and re-used them.

Too many people simplify it too much, you do need to be able to lay a quality weld, you're trusting your life and everyone elses' on the road to them. They are NOT bolt in. I always try to be the one cautioning people because too many others also assume they have the (rather expensive) pieces of equipment (welder, mainly) around that not every body has.

 

[JelloB1afra]

i see. good shit, dude. thanks for the info. ill be lookin out for that build thread too.

 

[Haywire6000]

I have a 1993 2.3 4x4 with 4.10s( factory with a 4x4 2.3) and it peppy up to about 50 then it's kind of a dog after that she hits 70-75 max in 4th at 4k.

 

[bobbywalter]

Not too difficult. Just need the right equipment and be comfortable/competent with it.

Angle finder, measuring tape, and a welder are really all you need.

Technically a grinder of you want to remove the old spring pads, but they're in the same spot as the Ranger's just on the wrong side of the tube. Leaving them on won't hurt anything, you just buy new pads for the top. You will also need some sort of shock mount, as Explorer's mount their shocks differently. You can also buy these, I carefully cut mine off the old 7.5" and re-used them.

Too many people simplify it too much, you do need to be able to lay a quality weld, you're trusting your life and everyone elses' on the road to them. They are NOT bolt in. I always try to be the one cautioning people because too many others also assume they have the (rather expensive) pieces of equipment (welder, mainly) around that not every body has.

i dont agree


i have been forced to bolt a few explorer units in. side of the road shit.


with stock ranger upper shock mounts you use two left explorer lower mounts, and cut 1/2 inch stock to bridge the new upper spring perch in place till you can weld them in. you lose some clearance, but it gets you by without welding...

but as a secondary ability it also lets you dial in the actual best working pinion angle by cutting the bridge stock to different lengths till your happy with it.