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302 head help


But only if the computer will handle it. I've heard that it has problems with bigger cams. A set of 1.7 full roller rockers will definately help. The Explorer cam is just a tad less cam than the HO's came with. The 1.7's put it on par with the HO cam. As for using the GT40's on a 351, the net result is about what the 69 351W 4 bbl motor was.

The main problem with EEC-V is it's inability to idle smoothly. Ford's alphabet cams are not a good choice because the lobe separation is too far. The stock cam is 116 degrees, and most people have found staying in this range will provide decent results. This is why the 1.7 rockers are a nice modification. Unfortunately there aren't a whole lot of choices, but they do exist. A guy like Gwaii probably has the ability to grind his own cam
 
Does anyone have info on using these on a 351w.i'm assuming that the 302 still uses 7/16 head bolts,and will need reaming to 1/2'' for this swap.....anything else i might need to look for?

Most of the GT40 non "P" heads from the Explorers already have the 1/2" heads bolt holes in them. I have only came by a few that didnt. I even pulled a set from a Explorer that had 1/2" in one head and 7/16" in the other. As far as using them on a 351W they will work great but there are better choises out there. I put a set on a 393w that I built for a guy with a Ford F cam and a Lightning GT40 intake and long tube headers and that car layed just a touch under 400hp to the tire. So yea they will work and make power but like I said before there is better choises that you could find for cheap out there.
 
Most of the GT40 non "P" heads from the Explorers already have the 1/2" heads bolt holes in them. I have only came by a few that didnt. I even pulled a set from a Explorer that had 1/2" in one head and 7/16" in the other. As far as using them on a 351W they will work great but there are better choises out there. I put a set on a 393w that I built for a guy with a Ford F cam and a Lightning GT40 intake and long tube headers and that car layed just a touch under 400hp to the tire. So yea they will work and make power but like I said before there is better choises that you could find for cheap out there.

i know there are better choices(there always will be,no matter what you have)but the thing is,i have these and my first choice was to use the stock '80s heads with a bit of porting.

i have a '85 351w block,.030 over that will get an edelbrock performer rpm cam and intake.i'll do a little cleanup porting on the heads and match the ports,as well as balancing the rotating mass.i'm looking for about 9.5:1 compression ratio.

i'm not needing ultimate horsepower,as much as a reliable engine that will pull 4500rpm for hours at a time,with occasional runs to 6500rpm.
 
Most of the GT40 non "P" heads from the Explorers already have the 1/2" heads bolt holes in them. I have only came by a few that didnt. I even pulled a set from a Explorer that had 1/2" in one head and 7/16" in the other. As far as using them on a 351W they will work great but there are better choises out there. I put a set on a 393w that I built for a guy with a Ford F cam and a Lightning GT40 intake and long tube headers and that car layed just a touch under 400hp to the tire. So yea they will work and make power but like I said before there is better choises that you could find for cheap out there.

So do they have bushings in them?
 
you see,this engine is going into a boat,and i want to be able to get to the south end of the islands with it but not have it take days.this means running at 35-40kts for 2 1/2-3 hours,and the same coming back.there is no civilization(not even a cabin)the whole way,and at the south end you are about 80 miles from the nearest town....with only the pacific ocean as a road.

so i need some power to keep up my speed,but i need reliability to stay alive.
 
you see,this engine is going into a boat,and i want to be able to get to the south end of the islands with it but not have it take days.this means running at 35-40kts for 2 1/2-3 hours,and the same coming back.there is no civilization(not even a cabin)the whole way,and at the south end you are about 80 miles from the nearest town....with only the pacific ocean as a road.

so i need some power to keep up my speed,but i need reliability to stay alive.

In your case I'd also highly recommend a new set of good rods for that motor. The stock 90's rods aren't what I'd use in a Marine application. I've pulled apart two 90's 5.0's that had broken rods, not the bolts that broke, but the rods themselves, and these were not in HP applications. I don;t know what Ford changed with these rods, but they don't have the older C8OE forgings in em, which just needed better bolts.
 
In your case I'd also highly recommend a new set of good rods for that motor. The stock 90's rods aren't what I'd use in a Marine application. I've pulled apart two 90's 5.0's that had broken rods, not the bolts that broke, but the rods themselves, and these were not in HP applications. I don;t know what Ford changed with these rods, but they don't have the older C8OE forgings in em, which just needed better bolts.

sounds like a good idea.....my short block is an '85 351w,do you figure those rods will be subject to the same issue?
 
sounds like a good idea.....my short block is an '85 351w,do you figure those rods will be subject to the same issue?

Can't say in that case. I know for sure Ford did a revision to the 302 rods in 91-92. If I was putting one in a boat, I'd definately use better rods in a 302. You're where, in Hawaii ? Island hopping ? I don't think I'd cut any corners in a boat engine going offshore.
 
sounds like a good idea.....my short block is an '85 351w,do you figure those rods will be subject to the same issue?

You either have the square cut rods with the square head on the rod bolt or you have the spot faced rod with a football shaped head on the rod bolt. You will want the spot faced rods with the football shaped rod bolt heads as they are the better rods. I have a set of these rods in a 351w that I built 18yrs ago and the engine has had a bunch of nitrous run thru it and it still runs great today. :headbang:
 
You're where, in Hawaii ? Island hopping ? I don't think I'd cut any corners in a boat engine going offshore.

haida gwaii,a.k.a. the queen charlotte islands-just off the south end of alaska.and yes,not cutting corners is paramount.

You either have the square cut rods with the square head on the rod bolt or you have the spot faced rod with a football shaped head on the rod bolt. You will want the spot faced rods with the football shaped rod bolt heads as they are the better rods. I have a set of these rods in a 351w that I built 18yrs ago and the engine has had a bunch of nitrous run thru it and it still runs great today. :headbang:

so basically the same as the big blocks.this one is a truck engine and has the football bolts.i'd figured on polishing the beams,peening and arp bolts,forged pistons,and studs on the mains.i'll also do the oil passage bypass to keep the bottom end fed.

there's lots of 351w engines being run in boats here that have just been pulled out of a truck and bolted to a boat going with no problem,but i'd like to be a little more sure of my power source.lose power and catch a current out there,and the next stop is japan.
 

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