2010 ranger 4.0 timing chain rattle

[joshkeller]

Picked up a nice 2010 ranger with 60k miles for very very cheap, knowing it needs timing chains. The front driver side chain has a rattle at dead idle and then randomly at lower rpn as well. Have unhooked serpantine belt to verify its internal. I plan on having the motor pulled and all 3 redone. Ive heard this issue was supppsedly fixed by 2004, but apparently not totally. Will redoing the timing chain systems with motprcraft parts likely solve the issue omce and for all, pr does this tend to come back pretty regularly down the road? The truck was cheap enough that its worth fixing, however, if its likely to be recurring, i may look into a replacement crate motor and just run this one until it blows.

 

[RonD]

The timing chain issues on the 4.0l SOHC engine was from the tensioners, they are spring loaded for starting then oil pressure takes over.
There was a design flaw that was changed around 2004, so newer tensioners are better

But they are still oil pressure dependent, so keeping the oil changed and clean is important.

Once you hear the rattle, the damage is done, new tensioners won't help, replacement of the damaged cassettes is needed
The rattle means one of the guides in the cassette has broken because chain tension got loose and continually slapped it.

Once repaired there should be no further problems if you change the oil as specified

I would put a little ATF in the engine oil before pulling engine and run it for a week or so to help clean out oil passages.
Maybe use a cordless drill to pump some oil thru the engine after tensioners are removed to clean out those passages

 

[adsm08]

Not quite correct. I have seen a few instances of a rattle being fixed by just new tensioners, but it has to be caught early. The guides haven't broken until you loose 3 cylinders. In your case, I would still get it all done. You probably have cassette damage.

 

[joshkeller]

Should all of them be done, or just the one making noise? Appears the front left is the "easiest" of the group. I did notice the oil was very dirty when i changed it.. id guess well over 5k miles per change by the PO

 

[RonD]

If you are pulling the engine then replace all 3 cassettes and tensioners and I would install new rear main seal and oil pan gaskets

And as adsm08 said you could try replacing just the 2 external tensioners with the newer ones, just takes the time to do it, because you would need the new tensioners regardless.

Its a roll of the dice with no real downside, either rattle is gone or it isn't, so your no worse off, just the time it takes to do it

 

[joshkeller]

I plan on sending the truck to the shop wednesday. Its only rattling at startup and at low rpm randomly. Do you forsee any problem driving to work (4 miles total per day) and to tge river saturday? (40 miles total)

 

[RonD]

No crystal ball here

Wish I had one

But from what I have read you should be fine

 

[joshkeller]

In terms of keeping clean oil through the motor - what is the recommended oil change duration? Is motorcraft oil or a full synthetic recommended?

 

[RonD]

Ford recommended 5w30 regular oil for the 2006 4.0l SOHC engines

My opinion
7,500 miles or 12 months oil change under 100k miles
3,000 miles or 6 months over 100k miles

The higher the miles the more "Blow-by" there will be and that's what makes the oil "dirty"

Synthetic is OK to use unless your engine leaks or uses oil, then its just too expensive for any benefits, in my opinion.
Synthetic can improve MPG slightly, and has longer change interval but that's an owner decision, some change it once a year others just change the filter every year and add a quart

Everyone over 20 years old has an opinion on best oil, lol, this is just mine

 

[adsm08]

I don't put anything but Motorcraft synthetic blend 5-30 and MC filters in/on either of my SOHC engines. Change both every 5K miles.

Both are DD vehicles with over 150K on the clock and not even a slight sign of rattle.

 

[joshkeller]

Being as how its already developed problems, ill probably stick with 3k miles. Thats only 2 changes a year for me tops. I can get mobil 1 for the same price at motorcraft oil (or within a dollar max per change), would you run the synthetic or stick to motorcraft? I ran nothing but motorcraft 5w20 and motorcraft filter on my 3.0 for 130k miles, but this is a different animal apparently.

 

[RonD]

Yes Ford did have a TSB around 2002 recommending 5w20 but the 4.0l was absent from the list

Found it: http://www.ford-cruising.hu/miscimages/0219.pdf

3.0l Vulcan is there
Exception engines that should still use 5w30 include the 4.0l

 

[MrEvilPirate]

I recently bought a 2002 and thought I'd chime in. I had some ticking at startup, then I would here some light rattle between 2.5k and 3k. I replaced the tensioners and the sound was greatly diminished, but still somewhat there at startup and at the 2.5-3k. I noticed after driving for about 10-15 min the 2.5-3k rattle disappeared.

I recently did my first oil change. The oil change sticker in the truck was still good for a while, it was from a Shell station. The filter looked crappy, it wasn't motorcraft, and I bet it was conventional oil.

The fact that the rattle/ticking diminished as the oil warmed up made me think lighter oil would help. I used full synthetic mobile 1 5w-20 (I know that it isn't lighter, but the synth flows better when cold... in my opinion maybe it's voodoo) and a motorcraft filter. Startup ticking rattle completely gone. ticking at 2.5-3k 95% gone, I cruise around in that rev range TRYING to hear it and it is eliminated, except first 2-3 min of driving, so I keep revs below 2k until I am out of the neighborhood and no more problems.

Obviously if your truck sounds like a powerstoke at idle changing oil isn't going to help you, but for anyone out there reading this who is starting to hear a tick, and for those doubting the benefits of good oil and a MC filter... spend the money on MC filter and use good oil if you want the truck to last.

This board was very helpful when I got my truck running (all new fluids axle to axle, 4 ball joints, tie rod ends, timing chain tensioners, thermostat housing, temperature sending unit, fan belt, air filter) hopefully this helps someone else.

 

[joshkeller]

mine has the intermittant rattle at 750 rpm (dead idle after warm up), and the occasional rattle slowly accelerating with a load. It goes into the shop tomorrow evening, and i am going to let the mechanic make the call on what to replace. Once its torn down, i'm going to go inspect and we will go from there. its mostly going to be based on his past experiences as to how far we go into this.