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2001 Ranger Edge clutch pedal issue. Need help....


vitalka89

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2012
Messages
16
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Manual
Hey guys I am new to this forum. I recently picked up a 2001 Ranger Edge with the 3.0L in it. I started having problems with the clutch pedal and have tried researching everywhere and can't seem to find an answer. It is similar to the problem many people are having with this failure of a clutch system, but mine corrects itself than goes bad constantly. I will drive it for a week with the clutch pedal feeling good like its supposed to than all of a sudden it starts catching lower and lower to the point where you barely release it from the floor and it's catching than all of a sudden I hop in and the pedal is dead on again, yesterday it was catching at a point where I had to shut the truck off to put it in gear. I am curious if this sounds like a master cylinder problem where I need to bleed the clutch or does it sound like the slave cylinder inside the tranny. I don't want to start tearing everything apart and changing parts that don't need change if I don't have to.
 
I expect you'll find your slave cylinder is the problem. They're known for being problematic. My `92, with only 172000 km and change (106000 miles and change) on the odometer, is on it's third slave cylinder.
 
Did you come across this same style problem? What would cause it to do this? It doesn't leak and the fluid has never got low or anything.
 
If there's no leak, it's likely not the slave. I would suspect the master has an internal leak (fluid leaking past the piston or bypass valve seals).
 
If there's no leak, it's likely not the slave. I would suspect the master has an internal leak (fluid leaking past the piston or bypass valve seals).

If I pull that master cylinder down would I be able to visually see the internal leak or is that something I would just replace the cylinder and hope that is the answer? My previous cars were Hondas and an entirely different setup so I am not too familiar with this setup.
 
If you could see it, it would be an external leak.
 
If you could see it, it would be an external leak.

What i meant is if i was to pull it off would there be any signs of internal leak? As in, are the accessible gaskets or something that would show wear that would make it noticeable.
 
Not really, I think it's a non-serviceable assembly.

Try this:
Disconnect the clutch hose fitting next to transmission.
Apply LIGHT pressure to the clutch pedal (10-20lbs). It should feel VERY solid, like it's fixed in place. If it slowly sinks down, check that the connector you undid isn't leaking (it's supposed to be self-sealing). If it is not leaking, then most likely you have leakage inside the master past the piston seal, requiring it's replacement.
 
Not really, I think it's a non-serviceable assembly.

Try this:
Disconnect the clutch hose fitting next to transmission.
Apply LIGHT pressure to the clutch pedal (10-20lbs). It should feel VERY solid, like it's fixed in place. If it slowly sinks down, check that the connector you undid isn't leaking (it's supposed to be self-sealing). If it is not leaking, then most likely you have leakage inside the master past the piston seal, requiring it's replacement.

This is the kind of answer I was looking for. Thank you, I will try this in the next few days and I'll let you know what happens.
 
Fixed!!!!!

Hey guys, I thought I would come back here and let you know I fixed my problem. This weekend I decided the pedal was pissing me off enough to try fixing it. I changed the clutch master cylinder with a new one from Schucks and used the proper bleeding procedure and voila! Drove it around 2 days now and the pedal is still nice and firm. Thought I would post my fix on here in case anyone comes across this.
 
Glad you got it fixed. :icon_thumby:
Appreciate the follow up.
 

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