2001 2.5L engine failed. Salvage yard says 01 - 02 specific

[Pez]

Need another engine for my newly acquired '01 with the 2.5L and salvage yards are telling me 2001 and 2002 are only years I can get a engine from. What's the big difference to say, a 2008 2.5L?

 

[Plum Ranger XLT]

It should be the 2.3L. You should be able to use a later model engine if you can get the computer for that engine it came with. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken.

 

[adsm08]

The 2.5L was used from 98 to mid-01, and was very very different from the 4-cyl engine used in 2008. Different bell pattern, different sensors, wiring, computer valve train, block, bottom end, oil pan, etc.

 

[Pez]

The 2.5L was used from 98 to mid-01, and was very very different from the 4-cyl engine used in 2008. Different bell pattern, different sensors, wiring, computer valve train, block, bottom end, oil pan, etc.

Ok cool so I got another odd ball year! Thankfully I found a 2.5 at a local yard and will rock it till it craps out then conver to a 5.0.

Thanks both for the quick response

 

[Pez]

Ok, so the 2.5L out of the 2001 was no good. Found a local truck that is a 1998 with a 2.5L. Will this one work in my '01?

 

[adsm08]

Should.

 

[RonD]

2001 Ranger 4cyl was transition year
Early 2001 had 4cyl SOHC 2.5l Lima engine
Later 2001 had 4cyl DOHC 2.3l Duratec engine

As adsm said engines are totally different, not interchangeable in any respect.

1998 to 2000 4cyl Rangers all used 2.5l Lima
2002 to 2012 4cyl Ranger all used 2.3l Duratec

 

[Pez]

Ok so the 98 engine did fit and is in the Ranger. Now at start the engine spikes to 2000 rpm and tries to stay there. When you give it gas to try and get it to respond it loses rpm and will try and die. You can get it to stay running but only at 2000 - 3000 rpm. Where is a good place to start on these?

This is using all the components off the engine that came with the truck. Just the base long block is junkyard.

 

[RonD]

IAC(idle air control) valve would be a good place to start
On upper intake/throttle body, 2 wires connected

Computer opens it all the way for starting, all fuel injected engines use some form of IAC Valve, and all will REV high on startup, but then should drop to "target" idle, 1,200cold, 750 warmed up are targets

Unbolt IAC from intake, then plug its wires in, if you took then off
Turn on the key
It should be open all the way, look at the valve inside
Now unplug the 2 wires and it should close all the way
Plug wires in again, and it should open all the way
Repeat until you are satisfied it is not sticking open

It is just a 12volt solenoid, key on engine off gives it full 12volt
After engine starts computer varies the voltage to close it a bit to set "target" idle RPMs

 

[Pez]

Removed and valve was open. Key on/off made no difference. Will get out the power probe and check for batt. vdc. Did start the engine and baby it letting rpm fall then tapping throttle etc. was able to get it to idle at 1200 rpm. Will install radiator tonight and get everything up to temp.

Did sound good though but heard a slight grinding, worried it was rods or mains. Removed my foot from clutch and noise went away. Blood pressure is back to normal now �� Throwout bearing is up next