2000 2.5l 2WD Clutch Master Problems

[Yardbird]

I think it's gone. The clutch's been wonky since I bought it last year, mushy, had to jam the pedal into the floor to shift, hard to find the friction point. Today it wouldn't release at all unless I pulled up on the pedal first with my foot. Drove it for a while and it gave way completely, no pressure at all. Won't be able to look at it until tomorrow morning but I think it's the master. What do ya' think? Am I wrong, am I right? I checked Rock Auto and found a few replacements for self-adjusting clutches, one for non-self-adjusting clutches, and most don't say. I don't know if the clutch is self-adjusting or not. How do I know which one's right? Two that don't say are pre-filled/pre-bled. Does pre-doing that work and is it worth paying more? I've watched the videos from Precision and bench bleeding doesn't seem too hard but I need to turn this around pretty quick. So what do you all say? Thanks, guys!

 

[4x4junkie]

Many do swear by the pre-bled stuff.
If you have a good understanding of what's involved, I'd say just get the normal one and bleed it yourself.

I would also strongly suggest replacing everything at once (master, slave, and clutch line). This way there can't be any particulate contamination in the system that may damage the new part you install.

Also, I'm not aware of anything other than a self-adjusting clutch being put into these trucks.

 

[Yardbird]

Good info. Thanks. Can I replace the clutch slave without pulling the trans? It looks like the slave is inside the bell housing.

 

[Yardbird]

Also, any tips, tricks, or threads I should read on how to replace it?

 

[Yardbird]

Anybody have anything good/bad to say about the NAPA replacement for this part?