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2.3 manifold flange gasket


philetus2

Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
6
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
The OEM exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe is the poorest designed gasket I've seen in a long while. The manifold has a tapered end that fits the flare on the pipe, but you're supposed to stick that donut that barely fits on the outer edge of the flare. Has anyone found a better solution?
 
I didn't know there was supposed to be a seal there... I just clamp the pipe to the taper on the manifold like it looks like it should be, it's worked just fine for me...
 
The donut may be 'modified' by the installer to fit over the exhaust pipe. The chamfer on the inside of the exhaust manifold outlet should be wire brushed if there is significant surface rust or carbon deposits.
My 'adjustment' procedure when installing exhaust pipes into manifolds is to get the pipe pretty well in place, start the engine and let it idle while listening to the exhaust for leaks. If it has the whistle, or snort or rumble, give the exhaust pipe a thump with a 2X4 or other convenient item. Kicks from boots while underneath sometimes are required.
If you make it louder, then thump on the other side. Once you are satisfied that it is pretty well in place, stop the engine and tighten the nuts from underneath. Re-start and check that it was not jostled or moved while tightening. I use the 'wobble tip' extensions because it is difficult to get straight on to the nuts w/o moving the exhaust pipe.
In many cases, I did not replace the donut...
tom

I will add that the above is generic to exhaust systems, not specific to Lima engines. Ford V8 engines of a time before most of you had asbestos gaskets that were most times left in place on re-assembly, but the bump & thump still works to 'adjust' the seal.
 
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I have never even seen a donut gasket on the pipe on these... There doesn't need to be one.
 
There's no need for a donut because it's a flare fitting.
 
There's no need for a donut because it's a flare fitting.


I wish somebody would tell the aftermarket world that these 2.3L engines don't have a flange gasket. I've been laying on my back all day trying to figure out how the pipe flange gasket that Rock auto sold me is supposed to fit. So now I know. It doesn't fit, but ALL of the aftermarket suppliers have it listed. :annoyed:

I also bought a set of Walker WK 36129 bolt/springs and they don't fit either. Do I need springs on this or will regular bolts and nuts fit? I already drilled out the holes on the manifold because the originals had rusted badly and couldn't be removed.

96 Ranger 2.3L 5MT
 
I can't state as fact that you don't need the spring-loaded nuts & bolts, but I think plain would do the job also. It may be the springs are an assembly assist in that the pipe can be bolted, torqued while moving down the line, and if it is slightly noisy after, the previously mentioned 2X4 or boot can 'adjust' the pipe to fit properly without having to loosen the nuts/bolts. Just my SWAG ..
tom

added:
Looking today Fri, I will add that the springs allow for 'longer' bolts that can be installed and tightened without having to run the nuts down to the 'bottom' of the threads. The older models, you would have a stud from the cast iron exhaust, and a nut run up under the metal piece around the pipe with the holes to go over the studs. The studs would rust. So would the nuts. With a spring, the threaded area is somewhat away from the heat, to a slight degree, and also more 'out in the open' and easier.
If you can get some springs & bolts at a boneyard, why not?
 
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I think everyone should have at least one of those laying around the garage somewhere...I had one for a number of years from my first exhaust work that I tried doing on my own...would probably still have it if I didn't move around so much...

The spring bolts were, what I thought, to allow some flex in the system...since that is one of the first points out of the engine bay where there is a connection...but I've been wrong on a number of speculations through sheer lack of understanding...:)
 

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